In message <9311091638.AA01658@hprpcd.rose.hp.com> Jim Brannan writes:
> I think the net ate my first message I sent Sunday night, so here's
> another cut...
>
> First some interesting info... The motor was pulled and completely
> disassembled this weekend and now the block and assorted pieces
> are at the machine shop. Eventhough the motor had 150lbs compression
> prior to the tear down, none of the pistons had an intact top ring!
> Three were shattered and one could not be found! Sleeves "look"
> good. One water hose was completely blocked with gunk. Looks
> as though I'll need the cam built up and reground.
>
> Questions:
> 1. There was some gasket sealing crud used on just a couple of gaskets
> (valve cover, pan, timing cover). Are just the gaskets not good
> enough? Recommendations for the added sealing agent?
Gaskets are used to fill in the holes between imperfect mating surfaces. Many
people, myself included used a gasket sealent for two purposes: 1. To hold the
gasket in place while assembling the parts, and 2. because we do not truse the
gasket to seal the imperfect mating surfaces completely. I use a blue RTV
sealent that comes in a silver tube. There are two kinds of blue RTV. The one
in the silver tube is the better stuff. Some people use it in joints of parts
that do not hold in pressure without gaskets. The secret there is to put it on
one side and let it sit until a skin is formed, then mater the other part to it
and keep it loose for a bit (depending upon ambient temperature) then tightning
the fasteners. Many people use a copper based sealent on head gaskets. Sealing
agents should not be used to keep petrol in its place. I have yet to see one
that will.
>
> 2. What did the blob of crud look like that was (PO removed) on the
> timing cover as a sound deadening enhancement? I read somewhere
> that this should not be removed. Should I put something back?
Black blob????? Been watching grade B Sci Fi before bed? ;*) I havent the
slightest idea what you are refering to. I have only seen black paint on the
timing chain cover. WWell I have seen black paint, rust, and a thick build up
of oil and dirt (black blob?)
>
> 3. Exhaust manifold paint: will any paint hold up? I can't spring
> for nickel plating it.
I've tried high temperature paint but it doesn't seem to hold up. There is
supposed to be a paint on ceramic based goop that is supposed to work but I have
not seen it.
>
> 4. The bolt (half threaded near head, rest smooth) that goes in the
> shaft on the transmission that actuates the clutch (locks the
> cast piece that has forks that moves the bearing on the trans
> shaft) is broke off inside. How the hell do you get it out?
> Do you have to cut the clutch shaft and get a new one? I
> saw in Haynes (or was it in a MOSS catalog) that this bolt does
> break and there is a stronger replacement available. The issue
> with removing the piece that is in there is that there is no
> access to the bolt hole as the shaft can't rotate far enough.
> All I can think of is to cut the $35 shaft to get it out.
Well, you can run down to your local tool store with the broken off part in hand
anf purchase a special drill bit that turns in the direction the broken part
unscrews. Get an E-Z out for fit the drill size and the pin. Drill a hole in
the broken pin for the E-Z out. Chances are quite good that the part left
inside will be extracted by the special drill and you would not need the E-Z
out.
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------------
> Jim Brannan (1966 Red TR4A)
> Rocklin, CA
> wk: 916-785-4776, hm: 916-624-9318, email jbrannan@hprpcd.rose.hp.com
> -----------------------------------------------------------------------
Best of luck,
TeriAnn
TeriAnn Wakeman One of these days, I'll be old enough that
twakeman@apple.com people will stop calling me crazy and start
LINK: TWAKEMAN calling me eccentric.
408-974-2344 TR3A - TS75519L, MGBGT - GHD4U149572G, 109 - 164000561
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