**NOTE** All my advice stems from a '74 engine.
Teriann J. Wakeman asks:
>I have a few questions that the 'B' experts might be able to answer.
>
>1. The workshop manual makes a big deal out of centering the transmission
> front oil seal/ cover assy on the shaft. The mounting holes on the front
>cover are evidently big enough to move the cover around to center the seal.
> The manual calls for a special tool (dosn't it always) to center the seal
> front trans. shaft.
>
> Q. What do you do if you do not have the tool? Eyeball it then tighten the
> mounting bolts? Take it to someone who has a magic tool?
Having replaced this seal twice and never using a magic tool I would say
you don't really need one. No, the seals were not replaced because of
leaking, or at least the second one wasn't. The first is an embaressing
story but it was leaking. Also the third seal has yet to leak, I still
don't get to add any oil between changes. :-)
>3. I need to replace the rear engine seal (68 BGT)
>
>Q. Any thing I should watch out for? any gotchas? do I need any parts other
> than the rear seal, & the locking tabs for the flywheel?
The only times that I've replaced this seal I've had to take the rear
engine plate off.
So I needed:
rear engine seal
rear engine plate gasket, this is a 2 part gasket. A large one for the
bottom and a small lozenge shaped one with two holes in it for the
top.
locking tabs for flywheel
seal retainer for oil seal
>
>4. There are no special tabs on the engine for hoist attachments (neat feature
> on TR engines).
>
>Q. Where are recommended points to attach chain for lifting engine?
Valve cover retainer bolts. Suggested method is to make a bracket to fit
between the two bolts so they don't bend towards each other but I've pulled
the engine with a chain leaving the valve cover on the car without any
problems. I can't remember if your car has the return pipe from the
heater bolted to the top of the valve cover. If not then you won't have
the bolts used for that.
>
>5. I'm getting tired of having wet carpets in the GT whenever it rains. I
>have cleaned out the drain for the cowel vent. I & any passanger can
> experience driping on our feet when it rains.
>
>Q. Any ideas where the inside "rain" might be coming from? How to stop it?
>
No, but if you find out could you pass it on to me? I have the problem
on the drivers side of my GT but the passenger stays dry. I suspect that
the leak involves the fender to cowling seal/beading. There are 3 bolt
holes for attaching the fender to the body up behind the dash. I think
the water comes through these. I also only have this problem when it's
raining and the car has been standing still.
>6. My B tends to overheat at idle when the ambient temp gets above approx
>75F. I have 160F thermostat, correct timing, cleaned out cooling system,
> and good hoses. It does not overheat sitting in traffic except on hot
> days. I am ordering a new radiator cap since I loose coolent out the
> overflow easily. The car is fitted with a 7 blade metal fan. I have
> looked at the later ('72-74) 7 blade plastic fan. The pitch looks
> greater on the plastic one and the blades look wider.
>
>Q. Does the plastic fan draw more air than the metal one? If I decided to
> try one, will the plastic fan interchange with the metal one with the
> same fixings??
I used a metal fan from a parts car while waiting for a new plastic one.
The fans bolted on without a problem. Don't remember any overheating
with the metal fan.
Tim
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