> 1) What do the factory alloy wheels look like? This car has rounded
> spoke mini-lite-like wheels. I would dismis them as aftermarket if it
> were not for the fact that the spare is the same alloy wheel, with a
> stock tire mounted to it. The most distinguishing feature about the
> wheels are that the center caps (all missing) look like they thread on
> to the wheel with a thick tread.
These don't sound like factory wheels. As far as Mitch knows, there
were only two kinds: spokes and (I forget what he called them) normal.
Maybe someone did it right when they bought aftermarket wheels and
got all five.
> 2) This car has the factory oil cooler. Is this a rare option? (rare
> enough to make it worthwile?). This is the first TR-6 I've seen with
> one that wasn't in a show.
As far as Mitch knows, there were no factory oil coolers.
> 3) Is there a way to tell [if overdrive] by looking at the serial number?
If you want to avoid the hornets' nest, check the steering column
bezel. If it has/had overdrive and the old bezel is still there,
an extra opening for the overdrive stick will be on the left.
> 4) Front fenders are too rusted to be patched. Are they difficult to
> replace? I see that they are bolt on, but this doesn't guarentee ease
> of removal.
Any TR6 body parts are very expensive. Just a warning... ;-)
> WHAT ELSE SHOULD I LOOK FOR!? I think he'll let it go for a song if I
> kick up enough dirty laundry about the car.
Okay, Mitch says, first make a list of the parts no longer available
for TR6's and make sure those parts are on the car or can be found
in the owner's garage somewhere. A partial list includes:
-Front turn signal assemblies (on the fenders)
-Bumpers
-Guages
Second, make a list of the very expensive items to replace, and
hope either they don't need replacing on your car, or you win
the lottery. :-) This list includes:
-All chrome pieces, no matter how small
-All things fuzzy, such as fur-flex for the a-posts, etc.
Third, check these items. Most TR6's have problems with:
-Floor pan rust (if you dare look under the carpets)
-Thumping from differential when shifting (This means the
differential mounting points are broken. Crawl under the
car and check for cracks on the mounting brackets.)
-Cracks on the brake master cylinder. (This is expensive, too.)
-Broken/cracked a-arm mounting points on the front suspension
-Cracks in the boots over the rear axle half-shafts splines
(If these boots are in bad condition, then the splines are
in bad condition, and they are impossible to find.)
Finally, a warning: factory hard tops are very difficult to find.
If you find one, chances are the owner wouldn't part with it anyway,
even if she/he doesn't have a car to go with it. People know these
cars are going up in value...
If the car you're looking at passes all these inspection points (and
whatever others other members of SOL offer), then BUY IT! :-) And
welcome! If you have any questions about rebuilding anything, just
post or call. We have a friend in LA who has all sorts of connections
for finding hard-to-get items, too! :-)
Enjoy!
------------------------------------------------------------
indi (Cathy Young) |"ssiwest!young"@lll-lcc.llnl.gov
Supercomputer Systems, Inc | or: uunet!ssi!young
Livermore, CA | (415)373-8044
------------------------------------------------------------
Mitch DeShields |
IQ Interface |
Livermore, CA | (415)443-6937
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|