:: 1) What do the factory alloy wheels look like? This car has rounded
:: spoke mini-lite-like wheels. I would dismis them as aftermarket if it
:: were not for the fact that the spare is the same alloy wheel, with a
:: stock tire mounted to it. The most distinguishing feature about the
:: wheels are that the center caps (all missing) look like they thread on
:: to the wheel with a thick tread.
The threads should be 3" in diameter, 8 threads to the inch. The spokes on
the wheels should go all the way to the center boss, with indentatuions for
the lug nuts. The heads of lugs should have a sort of short, stubby look
to them, and take a 3/4" socket. Or is it 7/8, how can I forget? Also,
chances are the wheels are closer to black than grey, if they really are the
magnesium castings. If these are indeed the 6" magnesium wheels, they are
worth on the order of two or three hundred each, even without the spinners.
:: 2) This car has the factory oil cooler. Is this a rare option? (rare
:: enough to make it worthwile?). This is the first TR-6 I've seen with
:: one that wasn't in a show.
Somewhat rare. If you look at ANY TR6, one can see the mounting holes for
the oil cooler on the front radiator guard. Easy to attach a cooler, like
the one that comes on MGB-GTs, which is where the cooler for my 4A came
from.
:: Is there a way to tell [if overdrive] by looking at the serial number?
If the car originally had it, the commission number should end in an "O",
as in "O"verdrive. Whether or not it is still there, or is one was added
later, can only be determined by looking at the end of the tranny.
:: 4) Front fenders are too rusted to be patched. Are they difficult to
:: replace? I see that they are bolt on, but this doesn't guarentee ease
:: of removal.
Yes, they are somewhat easy to replace. Chances are the old fenders will
have several spot welds attaching them to the front valence around the
headlights, but these shouldn't be too much trouble to get off. New steel
fenders are available, as are the splash guards and seals inside. If the
front fenders are rusted, chances are the front section of the rocker boxes
are getting rather thin also.
:: WHAT ELSE SHOULD I LOOK FOR!? I think he'll let it go for a song if I
:: kick up enough dirty laundry about the car.
rust, of course, especially around the top of the rear deck, around the tops
of that portion of the taillight which wraps around the side of the fender.
If you can drive the car, listen for the telltale clunks coming from torn
diff mounts, though it sounds a lot like simple worn U-joint noise.
In general, the TR6 drivetrain is pretty solid and robust, but the body prone
to rusting. Lots of parts are available for these cars, though, and they do
seem to be getting more popular.
Speaking of TR6s, for those of you who have stuck around this long, I might,
and I do emphasize just might, be willing to sell my '69 TR6 project. I am
reconsidering what I can do with my collection, and if someone wanted a TR6
that has a reasonably solid body, stripped down to the bare tub, needs the
good front valence welded in, the engine compartment cleaned, everything
reassembled, etc. I might be talked into selling. You know, if you wanted a
TR6 race car, this would be a good start.
It just seems to be against my religion to actually sell a car [What happened
to the infamous VTR quote I made, you, know, the one about making a living?]
instead of buying yet another forlorn wreck in my never ending quest to
singlehandedly save every single Triumph that was ever shipped to our shores.
Did you see the ad in Autoweek for the TR5 PI, fully restored, only $18,000.
Sigh.
mjb.
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