At 12:12 PM 1/29/98 PST, K M wrote:
>I finally get the @@#!% doors to work dependably and now the car won't
>turn over. The headlights are bright, the battery seems charged, the
>ignition switch seems to operate. I am not getting the starter solenoid
>"CLICK" that one normally hears.....
For starters both the 74 and 75 have remote solenoids. They are mounted
on the back side of the pass. side front fender well and are a pain to
get to.
You could have 4 problems:
1. a bad ignition switch, mounted on the bottom of the steering column
near the fire wall.
2. a open coil winding on the starter solenoid,
3. a broken contact in the solenoid
3. a very bad connection at the input to the solenoid.
To trouble shoot this, you will need either a volt meter (a multi-meter)
will do (either digital or analogue) or a mechanics test light (which
you can make your self for about 50 cents. I prefer the volt meter as
you get a more accurate reading than the brightness of the light bulb.
1. Have a helper sit in the car to turn on the ignition switch to "start"
when you tell them to. You need to be under the hood with the volt
meter. Make sure that the volt meter is set to 12V DC. Connect the
neg. lead to any metal part of the engine. (Note: I go to Radio Shack
and buy the alligator clips to clip the probes to things.) Take the
positive lead and attach it to one of the 2 "SMALL" terminals on the
starter solenoid. Have you helper try to start the eng. Did the volt
meter go to 12V?
If yes, then that's a good thing. Your ignition switch is working.
If no, then try the other small terminal. Did you now get 12V? If
no, I'd look at replacing the ignition switch. I got a FILCO brand
aftermarket switch for about $10. Besure you get the one for a TILT
column. There are different from the non-tilt col. switches.
2. When the ign switched was turned on and you DID get 12 V did the
solenoid go "Click".
If yes, then the coil in the relay is OK.
IF no, then the coil in the solenoid is burned out - Replace the
solenoid. Also a $10 part.
3. Now move the positive lead of the volt meter to the large nut on the
back (pointing to the rear of the car). There should be 12V there
all the time. Have you helper try to start the eng. Did the voltage
stay above 9.5 volts?
If no, you either have a weak battery or a bad connection at the
battery. Pull both the positive and neg. battery terminals, and clean
both the posts on the battery and the connectors on the cable. (Note:
the flat front mount connections used on the Brick SUCK!).
Repeat the test. If the voltage drops you probably have a weak
battery. - Try jumping the car from another car.
If yes, then the battery is OK and so are the connections at the
battery are fine.
4. Move the positive meter lead to the other large nut on the front of
the solenoid. Have you helper try to start the car. Do you get
a good 12V?
If yes, the contacts in the solenoid are fine. Go to Step 5
If no, did the meter show meter show and voltage? If yes, you have
a bad connection at the input to the solenoid. If no, then the
contacts of the solenoid are shot. Replace solenoid.
5. Move the positive lead to the large nut on the starter. This is
probably easiest accessed from under the car. (Remember to use jack
stands.) When your helper tries to start the car, do you get a
strong voltage reading (ie. greater than 9.5V).
If yes then the output of the solenoid is OK, you have a bad starter.
Most likely need brushes.
If no, then you either have a bad connection at the output of the
solenoid, or you have a bad cable from the solenoid to the starter.
End of test
If you attempt to work the solenoid or starter, DISCONNECT the NEG. SIDE
OF THE BATTERY BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING!!
Clean all connections with sand paper until nice and shiny.
I think I have an article about this either on the Bricklin Web page
or on the Morgan web page at http://www.team.net/www/morgan/tech
John
John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair@exis.net
Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229
48 TR1800 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V
71 Saab Sonnett III 75 Bricklin SV1 77 Spitfire
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