Ron Wrote:
> As you mentioned, this is an expensive way to achieve originality, since
> you would probably need many of the pictured accessories, and even then,
> you wouldn't be able to duplicate many of the factory welds. (Most
> manufacturers using resistance welding use their own specially designed
> tongs to reach into certain areas). Also, unless done under conditions
> that were ideal (clean, proper fit-up, excellent contact surfaces, etc.)
> a resistance weld would be weaker than the fusion (spot) welds you are
> presently making (something to consider in an Alpine where the sheet
> metal contributes to the overall strength and stiffness of the frame).
Ron, please correct me if I am wrong, but I believe you are endorsing the
current way that I repair sheet metal as better from a functional aspect.
Please allow me to further elaborate.
When I remove the old fender, I drill out the spot weld with a special
cutter that leaves the original metal intact, except for a little tip from
the removed piece that acts as a pilot for the cutting tool. This piece is
ground off, creating a piece of sheetmatal not unlike the factory original
appearance. The "new" fender is removed in the same manner so that it has a
5/16" hole where each of the spot welds were originally attaching it to the
donor car. The two are lined up and then held in place by clecos. I then use
3" "C" clamps to create a very tight fit. I then MIG weld a small lump in
the hole till it is full. I then repositon the "C" clamps and go down the
edge till it is done. I then grind down the lump to create the best
"original" appearance that I can.
THe "new" technique would be to remove the old fender the same way, but
remove the "new" fender by cutting off the ataching point with a saw or
torch, then preserve the fender by cutting through the unused portion with
the cutting tool. This would keep the fender in as close to OEM
configuration as possible. The two would then be straightened as best with
hammer and dolly, cleaned of all impurities, then lined up with clecos
(these holes would have to be welded), and then using the same technique of
spotweldning, then repoistioning of clamps till the entire fender was
done.Care could be taken to hit the original spot weld dimple. The welds
created by the cleco holes could be given special attention and any welds
that could not be made by the spot welder could be made by the MIG, and
given special care.
This taken into account, do you still advocate the MIG welding technique?
I have also thought of heating the ground weld with a torch and then
"smacking" it with a flat center punch to create a "spot weld". Of course,
this could only be done in an area not prone to warpage. Lou
> Louis & Laila wrote:
> >
> > Howdy all,
> > I am wondering if anyone has had experience with the Spot Welder
that is
> > sold by EASTWOOD. I would like to replace sheet metal without having it
> > obvious that the fenders have ever been replaced. My current technique
is to
> > remove the spotwelds with a cutter, then MIG weld a small circle in the
hole.
> > This leaves a lump that can be ground down, though an experienced
restorer can
> > see that the fender was replaced. The Spot welder is rather expensive,
at
> > $459.00, plus you must buy a variety of tips and pay for shipping! If it
was
> > "worth it", then I might give it a shot. But I would rather not spend
that
> > kind of money if it isn't. Lou
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