Paul,
If the ignitor were installed in the same position as the points,
and the rotor magnets cross the ignitor in more or less the same
position. then this shouldnt have been a problem.
Are you talking 180 crank degrees here, or cam/distributor degrees?
Sounds like the pertronics didnt mount exactly like the points did,
and the side cover plate wouldnt let you change the timing to what
you needed, so you had to use the other side of the cap to make it
work.
When you mout ANY aftermarket ignition, you want to mount it so that
with the engine at #1 TDC(#1 valves closed), the dist in its nominal
position, the rotor pointing straight at the #1 cap terminal, when the
points just begin to open or the sensor is triggered, and the spark occurs.
You want to test for this with the cap off, so you can see exactly
what happens.
If the above circumstances doesn NOT occur, you must mount the sensor
points so that it does, OR ELSE THE MECHANICAL ADVANCE WONT WORK,
and you will have a weak or non-existant spark.
Jarrid Gross
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-alpines@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-alpines@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of CANISDOG@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2000 8:44 AM
To: alpines@autox.team.net
Subject: Pertronics Problems
Has anyone had problems get the timing right with the Pertronics ingnition
system. I have had to "flip" my distributor 180 degrees to get the timing
right.
With the distributor in the standard position (vacume advance on block side)
the vacume advance hits the block before correct timing can be made. If I
move the wires one position...then I have my vacume advance all up in my dip
stick!
I called Pertronics and they said this should be a "drop in application" and
I should not have to move my distributor. They had me check the voltage and
everything checks out. (not using the ceramic resistor)
Any input would be nice. Bought it from SS and had Pertronics check out the
number on it, they said it is the right one for the application.
Paul
Colorado
|