Rick's question below was convenient since I spent a few hours this past
weekend cleaning and disassembling my differential with the intention of
replacing the pilot shaft seals and the two side shaft seals. Current problem
is that while the flange on the pilot shaft came off easy, the side flanges
refuse to budge. Sunday I ruined a cheap puller and went to get the best
available at Autozone ($39.) and have really reamed on that baby with no
results. They are soaking in penetrating oil now but looking for advice.
Tighten harder? Go to a machine shop for a press? Apply my propane torch?
Any help appreciated.
Well before I hit the send button, I did an archive search and found my answer.
Machine shop with press is the only answer. I'll go that route and give an
update. Thanks to all those in the archives.
As an update, my plan for the winter was to drop the differential and all rear
suspension components. Clean, paint, new seals in diff, new trailing arm
bushings, repair what I hoped was minor rust. All going well except the
problem with the flanges and as suspected by one list member, more rust
than expected. Had to remove the breastplate and cut out an additional seven
sections. I plan to start fabricating the path pieces this weekend. Lots of
fun. Thanks for the help on the flanges.
Darcy Hunter
No. Easton, MA
'73 TR6
Subject: [6pack] Differential mount bushes - rubber or poly?
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HI,
Dropping the differential for rebuilding and I was wondering what people liked
for replacing the differential mounting bushes - rubber or polyurethane. This
is part of a total rebuild of the car, and I'm trying to find a way to improve
the handling without making the ride too harsh for daily
driving. I'm leaning towards rubber for vibration isolation but am curious
what others have done.
Thanks!
Rick Lambour
1970 TR-6
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