Thank you, John, for the follow up! Those attach points for the choke
cable do seem to move freely and do not appear to be part of the
problem...I don't think. I've observed the motion of the cams and it
seems that they simply stop too soon. I can move them the remainder of
the way, to the full open position, very easily by hand.
As I have been wrestling with a number of issues over a long period of
time, I cannot say for certain that this is a new issue. Previous fast
idle problems were resolved, one at a time, by having rebuilt the vacuum
servo, distributor, and the carburetors. The latter task was one I
undertook so I may be part of the problem. If I disconnect the cables
completely, the cams move quite easily by hand so my focus is on the
cable which may be a red herring.
I'll try to reposition the cable a few times to see if anything changes.
John VanNorman wrote:
> Rick,
>
> A followup thought - how well does that little nut do-hickey on the
> cam rotate (I'm talking about the nut that the end of the choke cable
> passes through and that you tighten down to hold the cable)? I'm
> envisioning it in my head right now and maybe someone can confirm
> this, but doesn't that nut rotate as the cam moves so that the choke
> cable stays fairly straight throughout the motion of the cam. Could
> it be that the nut isn't rotating freely, causing the wire to bend,
> which gives you less downward force on the cam when pushing in the
> choke?
>
> If it isn't that, then it could be a combination of the choke cable
> not being stiff enough and it being attached to the body of the carb
> too high so that there is too much exposed cable.
>
> If you want to try retro fitting the springs on the carbs as Nelson
> suggests, you can probably do a test before ordering the parts to see
> if it fixes your problem. A previous owner of my father's TR6
> replicated the effect of the original spring on each carb by
> installing one long spring with one end attached to the cam and one
> end secured through a small hole drilled in the body of the car just
> below the carb. If you look just below the carb in the bottom right
> hand corner of this picture, you can see one of the springs:
>
> http://vannorman.no-ip.org/albums/dadnewtr6/aby.jpg
>
> Obviously I wouldn't recommend drilling the holes in the body for a
> test, but you could probably temporarily secure them for the purposes
> of a test. I'm not certain, but those may be the springs used on the
> brake and clutch pedals. I ended up removing them when I installed
> the proper springs.
>
> John V.
> 1974 1/2 TR6
|
