Rick,
A followup thought - how well does that little nut do-hickey on the
cam rotate (I'm talking about the nut that the end of the choke cable
passes through and that you tighten down to hold the cable)? I'm
envisioning it in my head right now and maybe someone can confirm
this, but doesn't that nut rotate as the cam moves so that the choke
cable stays fairly straight throughout the motion of the cam. Could
it be that the nut isn't rotating freely, causing the wire to bend,
which gives you less downward force on the cam when pushing in the
choke?
If it isn't that, then it could be a combination of the choke cable
not being stiff enough and it being attached to the body of the carb
too high so that there is too much exposed cable.
If you want to try retro fitting the springs on the carbs as Nelson
suggests, you can probably do a test before ordering the parts to see
if it fixes your problem. A previous owner of my father's TR6
replicated the effect of the original spring on each carb by
installing one long spring with one end attached to the cam and one
end secured through a small hole drilled in the body of the car just
below the carb. If you look just below the carb in the bottom right
hand corner of this picture, you can see one of the springs:
http://vannorman.no-ip.org/albums/dadnewtr6/aby.jpg
Obviously I wouldn't recommend drilling the holes in the body for a
test, but you could probably temporarily secure them for the purposes
of a test. I'm not certain, but those may be the springs used on the
brake and clutch pedals. I ended up removing them when I installed
the proper springs.
John V.
1974 1/2 TR6
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