I'll ask the question here, everything else is just background:
Is there any way, after a ZS carb rebuild, to tell if the A/F mixture is
'good' without using a $$$ commercial tester or building your own ?
I loaned out my Bentleys, so I forget if there's a procedure to blind set
the mixture prior to installing rebuilt carbs. And I've tried the 'lift
the air valve and listen to the idle' but results were inconclusive.
Background:
'72 TR6, stock engine, unknown miles ( I put on 30K), Idled poorly, did
not stay at one RPM, varied about a lot, but all other performance was good
(no missing/stalling, decent acceleration), RPMs went up a lot when
starting fluif was sprayed along the throttle shafts. Figured the shafts
could use replacing during the rebuild.
I had a spare pair of ZS 175 CD (not 175 CD2's) that I bought from TRF in
1992. They called them "Blue Tops" for the color of the damper rod plastic
top. The only other visible difference from the original carbs was that
the choke lever has 2 spring loaded detents or stops where the originals
didn't.
Rebuilt the older carbs, set mixture fully CW, then went CCW 1.5 turns.
Installed in car, started right up.
During the road test the performance was good under hard acceleration and
idle was improved. However, under gentle acceleration, or just barely
pressing the pedal, the car seems to buck slightly with a slight 'blurble'
in the exhaust tone, This condition was not present with the original
carbs.
OK, I'll ask another question: Could this condition be related to too rich
mixture? Which brings me back to my original question at the top of the
post......
TIA
Rick Olson
1972 - CC78827U/5 <- no overdrive here :-)
Pics: community.webshots.com/user/nosto53
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