While on the topic, I should add that rebuilding the
M/C is one job where you DEFINTELY need to wear safety
glasses/goggles.
Both while trying to disassemble and reassemble the
piston mine "exploded" on me and pieces hit my safety
goggles.
FWIW, after the rebuild my M/C never seemed to work as
well as I would like (bit of a "sinking" pedal). Then
the reservoir developed a leak, so I replaced the
whole unit with a new Girling m/c I picked up for
$100. Works great and looks even better.
William
'74 TR^
--- William Maslin <cwrm4@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Don --
>
> I tried the Nelson method to no avail.
>
> I went to the local Sears, and they had a 1/2" hex
> wrench on the shelf. I put the M/C in a vise, and
> used
> the Sears hex wrench + a 4' pipe. Presto!, it turned
> immediately.
>
> William
> '74 TR6
>
> --- Don Malling <dmallin@attglobal.net> wrote:
> > I'm having trouble removing the hex nut which
> holds
> > in the tipping valve
> > on my TR250 brake MC.
> >
> > Nelson doesn't mention anything special about
> > removing it at
> >
>
http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Brakes/MCPDWA/MC.htm
> >
> > I don't have the 1/2" allen wrench, so I'm using a
> > pipe wrench and a hex
> > bolt as Nelson described. Just don't budge. I've
> > soaked it in PC
> > blaster, but no go. Maybe I just need to get the
> big
> > allen wrench and
> > lean on it???
> >
> > Any secrets to this??
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Don Malling
>
>
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