I slipped a memory chip on my holes - I am on the top hole. It is
written to use the middle hole, (the factory setting). The top
hole gives you more clutch plate travel, but requires more
hydraulic pressure - this might translate into a little more wear
and tear on your hydraulic and linkages, and for sure will give
you a slightly heavier pedal.
It seems the TR6 MC bore was originally .75 inches and was reduced
to .70 inches to accommodate complaints from women drivers about
the clutch being to heavy and clutch plate travel was accordingly
reduced to marginal. So another fix is to go to a .75 master.
Mike L
60A,67E,59Bug,74TR6
----- Original Message -----
From: Bert Van der Stee <bert.van.der.stee@pandora.be>
To: <6pack@autox.team.net>
Sent: August 19, 2002 5:01 PM
Subject: RE: Clutch Bleeding
> Mike,
>
> about your last sentence - "am using the middle hole". Is it
also OK to use
> one of the other three holes ? I thought I read somewhere in the
manual to
> use only the middle one, but I could be wrong ?
>
> Rgds,
> Bert
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-6pack@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-6pack@autox.team.net]On
> Behalf Of Michael Lupynec
> Sent: lundi 19 ao{t 2002 19:27
> To: Mark Wright; 6pack@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Clutch Bleeding
>
>
> Start engine in neutral, get the car rolling down an incline or
> get a hand push to a few miles per hour, slip it into first gear
> and continue motoring slowly, push clutch pedal all the way down
> and aggressively hit the accelerator on/off several times. This
> has always freed a well stuck clutch for me without too much
> excitement.
>
> If your rpms do spin up and you are still not able to shift -
> maybe your half inch travel is too close to the minimal side -
I'm
> now getting about .625 and shifting is pretty good. I have zero
> play in the clevis, made sure there is no carpet holding up the
> clutch pedal, bent the pedal stop tab to let it go down even a
> little further, have a SS clutch line and am using the middle
hole
> (my shaft lever is pointing slightly rearward at rest but
> holding - hopefully welded by the DPO which saves me an engine
> pull for now).
>
> Mike L
> 60A,67E,59Bug,74TR6
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Mark Wright <mewright@eznet.net>
> To: <6pack@autox.team.net>
> Sent: August 18, 2002 11:56 PM
> Subject: Clutch Bleeding
>
>
> > I've been sitting on the sidelines for a few months since a
> bought my 6,
> > but enough is enough!
> >
> > When I bought the car the clutch pedal went to the floor so I
> rebuilt the
> > clutch MC and SC. Now I'm having problems engaging in any
gears
> since I
> > bled the lines. After 3 or 4 tries I THINK I got all the air
> out. The
> > clevis pin travels 0.5 inches, but yet I can't shift into 1st
> thru 4th and
> > reverse just grinds. The clevis pin is snug and the hole on
the
> rod is
> > just slightly oblongated.
> >
> > History on the car, supposedly it ran fine before it sat for 5
> years before
> > I got it. I've got a receipt from 1989 for a new clutch
> installation and
> > according to my records only 1,500 miles have been put on
since.
> >
> > Has anyone encountered a similar situation? Could I still
have
> air in the
> > system, is it worth bleeding again. Should I try the upper
hole
> of the
> > clutch operating arm or won't that help. Could the clutch be
> stuck to the
> > flywheel from sitting for 5 years.
> >
> > Fearing the worst,
> >
> > Mark Wright
> > Fairport, NY
> > 1972 TR6
|