Jerry:
I am running the SU's and love them. The carbs that I am currently running I
built from a Volvo application I had to drill and press the crankcase vent
hose nipples(obtained from a hobby shop carrying the brass tube)I don't know
your particular carb origin but most applications already have these in
place the hoses for the crankcase are hooked up as you would the ZS's,the
hoses to float bowl are easier to just disregard and be sure to CAP THE
NIPPLE FROM THE CANISTER to the float bowl vents(to prevent debris fom
entering the canister mainly at shutdown because as you probably know vacuum
is applied. Unless you want to oversize the bowl vents and install the
required nipples for the existing connection to the canister
I am curious what application did your carbs come from? because I had to
drill #55 tapping into the bottom on the intake side of the throttleplate to
keep the same performance that the retard unit gave, I tried a distributor
from a GT6 and even after tinkering around with the weights and springs I
was unable to get it right so I had to modify that part also. I am currently
using the needles Coded SW for the TR4 application with good performance and
Emmisions as far as all indications go with ColorTune and feel of the
acceleration. I peviously posted regarding these same needles stating that
my spark plugs indicated rich but that was because I failed to keep them
clean in between experiments.
good luck on the conversion and keep us posted on the progress.
Brooks
Atlanta GA
74 CF28658UO
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Shaw" <jcs104@home.com>
To: <6pack@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 02, 2001 6:47 PM
Subject: Re: SU HS6 emissions setup
> Dick
> Ok, I figured out that the SUs were not "emissions friendly" by looking at
> the connections. My reason for choosing them is that SUs have been on
every
> LBC I've owned, including my other project car, a '66 Spit MKII. I've had
my
> UniSyn sitting around since I was in college. So, I didn't want to mount
yet
> another kitting learning curve, and my ZS were not functional with
corroded
> needles, and all that implies.
>
> Now the issue is how and what to remove, if I'm going to abandon the
> emissions stuff.
>
> 1) Do I remove the carbon cannister and plug up the hose from the gas
tank?
> 2) Do I remove or at least unplug the electrical connection to the
> anti-runon switch?
> 3) Do I plug up the the valve cover port and remove all of the connected
> hoses?
>
> If all of the above is possible, seems to me to be a win for the antique
> cars that don't need emissions tests. All I need to do is carefully wrap
up
> everything and store it away in case I want to sell my car to a purist, or
a
> resident of a state with antique car emissions testing.
>
> Thanks,
> Jerry
> '74 TR6
>
>
>
> Original Message-----
> From: "Sally or Dick Taylor" <tr6taylor@webtv.net>
> To: "Jerry Shaw" <jcs104@home.com>
> Cc: <6pack@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, August 02, 2001 8:40 PM
> Subject: Re: SU HS6 emissions setup
>
>
> > Jerry---I don't think you'll be able to comply with the emissions setup
> > with the SU HS6 carbs. It is said that this is the reason for going to
> > the ZS, which is further developed along those lines. That doesn't mean
> > you can't tune the SU to run at the ideal Air/Fuel ratio, when the SU is
> > in good condition. You can. What is missing are ways for all of the
> > emission hoses that are on the ZS carbs to connect to, plus the bypass
> > (engine overrun) valve, a port to provide ignition retard vacuum, and
> > such. (You might find a port for vacuum advance, but only the early
> > distributors had a pot to use this.)
> >
> > What the SU is more versatile in, is the needle choices. One has to know
> > what is needed for their particular application, and/or a method to
> > check the A/F ratio. Otherwise, there's really no advantage over the ZS,
> > in my opinion, and I have used both types.
> >
> > Dick T.
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