Stephen-
My experience was with a Salisbury, but I think it applies to any diff
that can't be fed through the side of the frame.
>From under the car, drive a nail up through the floorboard of the body
to mark each corner of the triangle formed by the frame above the diff.
Then cut straight lines from hole to hole to allow access from the top.
To reassemble the body, add some flanges (flat fiberglass strips) to the
triangular piece to cover the sawcuts. Put some string-type caulk under
them (the stuff used to seal sinks in kitchen counters is good). Hold
the assembly down with flat head screws and you're back running.
Best,
Skip
"Hill, Stephen M EDUC:EX" wrote:
>
> Last night I was taking apart a TR6 rear end. Externally the rear end was
> perfectly clean, internally the ring and pinion and the output shaft bearing
> were rusted badly. Some DPO had obviously pressure washed it, water leaked
> past the worn seals, and it was put on a shelf to rot. Too bad: it was a
> rare 3.45:1 crown and pinion gearset, used on the UK TR5 and 6's, and of
> course TVR's.
>
> To the point of my writing. I had never taken a TR6 rear end apart before,
> so decided this was a good one to learn on. I wanted to take the diff cage
> (containing the sun and planet gears) out of the case. The problem is there
> is an interference fit between the case and diff cage. This requires a diff
> spreader, shown in some of the manuals, which pulls the case apart enough to
> lift out the diff cage. Somebody on the list recently mentioned they spent 6
> months looking for one of these, before they gave up. I recall somebody
> saying he pried his out with a crow-bar. I tried the crow bar, but no luck.
> Stumped, but determined, I came up with a simple solution. Using a great
> honking c-clamp, I gently squeezed the case, which slighly pushed the case
> apart enough to lift the cage out, allowing me to get at the bits I needed.
>
> How does it work? Difficult to explain without a drawing, but imagine a
> basketball, and you want to give it the shape (slightly) of a football. The
> diff spreader would pull the sides into the shape required. Or, using a
> c-clamp, you would squeeze the middle together (slightly) and drive the ends
> into the shape required. From the perspective of the basketball, makes no
> diff! Sorry, couldn't resist!
>
> Some metalurigist might want to discuss the properties of cast steel under
> tension versus compression, but I am convinced that this is irrelevant given
> the small forces and minute clearances required for this job.
>
> Any thoughts on how tough it is to swap the TR6 diffs on TVR's? I recall
> somebody saying the body needs to come off, although I also recall sombody
> saying that if you cut a hatch in the back deck it can be done without
> moving the body. Appreciate any help you can provide on this.
>
> Stephen Hill
> 1972 TVR
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