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Fitting a longer pushrod may help, but do be careful not to "overthrow" the
clutch. That is, to overcompress the clutch cover fingers which can then
distort and destroy the clutch.
The distance that the clutch mechanism moves between fully released and full
compressed is not actually controlled by the length of the slave pushrod,
but by the amount of fluid displaced when you press the pedal. The pushrod
simply relays the movement. The necessary movement is rather less than 1/3
of the available travel at the slave cylinder, so that as long as the slave
piston isn't coming up against the circlip at the end before the clutch is
released, then the pushrod length will be immaterial.
But a combination of a thick new clutch driven plate and worn pivot points
on the clutch release lever arm can result in too much lost movement of the
release bearing, in which case the longer pushrod may help.
Guy
-----Original Message-----
From: spridgets-bounces+guy.weller=tiscali.co.uk@autox.team.net
[mailto:spridgets-bounces+guy.weller=tiscali.co.uk@autox.team.net]On Behalf
Of Weslake1330@aol.com
Sent: 19 June 2008 11:37
To: tequila.brad@gmail.com; dlh2001@comcast.net
Cc: spridgets@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Spridgets] Sleeving master/brake cylinders - Stainless vs.
Brass
Hi Brad,
Off work today sick with a stinking cold - had to go to bed at 8pm
yesterday
as I was too tired to stand up.
I've just been through a series of clutch issues and replaced everything
before pulling the engine. Things to try are using an extended clutch push
rod
(it can help you get enough clutch travel even with poor hydraulics). The
slave on the early minis is much the same as the spridgets (but you might
need
to check this). Stay away from silicone brake fluid. Fit a rigid pipe
from
the slave bleed long enough to appear in the engine bay and then put a
fitting on it so you bleed from this point.
Hope you can sort this before LOTO.
Regards
Daniel
In a message dated 19/06/2008 02:51:26 GMT Daylight Time,
tequila.brad@gmail.com writes:
I wish, I already put a nut in the slave cup, to lengthen the clevis. No
joy
What is the real pisser, is that this master DID work, for about two days,
before it shit out all the fluid. I get it reworked, and it blows out the
slave. I buy a slave, and it STILL won't F'n work. Damn near $400, for
shit.....
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