David:
Great wiring diagram on that site!
I've been staring at it and thinking about both lights AND ignition
going away simultaneously. That's an essential clue.
Battery negative ground seems to be first thing to check. Then
following the positive cable to the starter solenoid terminal and on as
a brown wire to the generator terminal and then off to the front of the
car feeding the light switch. It then goes to the fuse block and back
to provide current to the ignition switch. Sooo... if BOTH lights AND
ignition go dead, the problem has to be before the power supply reaches
the light switch, I would think. The lighting system has multiple ground
points, so I think a bad ground farther upstream would be unlikely to
affect total lighting equally.
BUT, ground from the ignition switch runs to the fuse block and then to
the coil where I guess it reaches ground through the coil bracket?
Could be that route too.
Any opinions?
--JohnD
-----Original Message-----
From: David Lieb [mailto:dbl@chicagolandmgclub.com]
Sent: Monday, May 14, 2007 10:05 AM
To: Deikis, John G; Spridget List
Subject: Re: Diagnostic needed LGC- not LBC
God is trying to tell you that you have too many toys.
Repent now before it is too late.
Obviously electrical. If it were a short, I would expect a fuse problem,
so probably an occasional open. http://www.vintagebus.com/
has lovely wiring diagrams... It shows a ground strap from transmission
to
frame, but the headlights would not be affected by that. I would have to
think that it would be in the ground connection at the battery or else
in
the
positive cables between battery, starter, generator, ignition switch,
lighting
switch and fuse block. A test light between that first fuse and ground
to
monitor power whilst you bend and twist the cables could be helpful...
Some of those connections will look fine mechanically ;-)
David Lieb
1972 RWA Midget
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