John,
On a 6V bug, the voltage regulator was on the generator. In
a stock 12V system the regulator was under the seat with the battery.
On yours? I've seen 12V regs bent up to fit on the genny, and I've
seen alternators put on with internal regs.
The coil grounds through the points into the dizzy, then
engine then frame at the transaxle strap.
Also, the German fuses can easily corrode and the fuse block
lose its springy-ness to hold them in.
Is your stopping at all related to turns, bumps, or rapid
acceleration? LOL
Peter
==
At 03:14 PM 5/14/2007, Deikis, John G wrote:
>David:
>Great wiring diagram on that site!
>
>I've been staring at it and thinking about both lights AND ignition
>going away simultaneously. That's an essential clue.
>
>Battery negative ground seems to be first thing to check. Then
>following the positive cable to the starter solenoid terminal and on as
>a brown wire to the generator terminal and then off to the front of the
>car feeding the light switch. It then goes to the fuse block and back
>to provide current to the ignition switch. Sooo... if BOTH lights AND
>ignition go dead, the problem has to be before the power supply reaches
>the light switch, I would think. The lighting system has multiple ground
>points, so I think a bad ground farther upstream would be unlikely to
>affect total lighting equally.
>
>BUT, ground from the ignition switch runs to the fuse block and then to
>the coil where I guess it reaches ground through the coil bracket?
>Could be that route too.
>
>Any opinions?
>--JohnD
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: David Lieb [mailto:dbl@chicagolandmgclub.com]
>Sent: Monday, May 14, 2007 10:05 AM
>To: Deikis, John G; Spridget List
>Subject: Re: Diagnostic needed LGC- not LBC
>
>God is trying to tell you that you have too many toys.
>Repent now before it is too late.
>Obviously electrical. If it were a short, I would expect a fuse problem,
>so probably an occasional open. http://www.vintagebus.com/
>has lovely wiring diagrams... It shows a ground strap from transmission
>to
>frame, but the headlights would not be affected by that. I would have to
>think that it would be in the ground connection at the battery or else
>in
>the
>positive cables between battery, starter, generator, ignition switch,
>lighting
>switch and fuse block. A test light between that first fuse and ground
>to
>monitor power whilst you bend and twist the cables could be helpful...
>Some of those connections will look fine mechanically ;-)
>David Lieb
>1972 RWA Midget
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