Sorry Mike...no pointss or condenser in that car! It
should have a 45D Dizzy unless replaced.
Dan Dwelley
77 Midget
Alexandria, Va.
--- Michael Lupynec <mlupynec@globalserve.net> wrote:
> Battery (if dead) and plugs (because cheap) good
> idea, but if
> going with cap, rotor, wires then why not points,
> condenser &
> check the coil resistance. Or how about for now
> just check for a
> strong spark?
>
> If carbs are really badly gummed up I would rather
> buy a carb O/H
> kit.
>
> All unsiezed engines will crank. Almost anything
> will sputter. It
> will be interesting for you to keep us informed on
> the continuing
> saga.
>
> The burning question is did u get a deal because a
> dumb DPO just
> couldn't handle a minor diagnosis or he is he
> cleverly hiding a
> grenade. Or as I have found often enough an innocent
> combination
> of poor maintenance and serious abuse puts most cars
> into furlow.
> That's why I mentioned the compression test in the
> previous post.
>
> The condition of the rest of the car is also a
> determining factor
> on how much money u put up front. I usually like to
> see good
> compression and reasonable sign of life from the
> engine before
> spending more than 50.
>
> Mike L.
> 60A,67E,59Bug
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: cbking <cbking@mail.alum.rpi.edu>
> To: <spridgets@autox.team.net>
> Sent: January 23, 2001 10:13 AM
> Subject: Re: '79 Midget 1500
>
>
> > Hmmm, i should have been a little more specific.
> I'm a little
> new at this. ;-)
> >
> > The Midget has 42,000 original miles on it, last
> ran in 1994,
> never been rebuilt to my knowledge. My aim for now
> is to get the
> motor running so I can more easily maneuver it about
> the yard. The
> previous owner said it did crank and sputter as
> recently as a
> month or two ago.
> >
> > My plan is to get cap, rotor, wires, plugs, and
> battery, drain
> gas and replace, change oil and filter, and give her
> a spin. I saw
> a post to the list about cranking without the plugs
> to circulate
> oil in the engine. I'll do this, too, as it seems a
> good idea. Is
> there anything else really important I may be
> missing?
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > -=Chris
> >
> >
> >
> > Chris King - cbking@alum.rpi.edu
> >
> > "My brain's trying to escape; you scared it."
> >
> >
> >
> > ---------- Original Message
> ----------------------------------
> > From: Ajhsys@aol.com
> > Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 09:40:03 EST
> >
> > >In a message dated 1/23/01 8:13:37 AM Eastern
> Standard Time,
> > >cbking@mail.alum.rpi.edu writes:
> > >
> > >
> > >> I just picked up a '79 Midget that of course
> needs work. The
> chassis looks
> > >> solid (a little rust under the doors and in the
> rear quarter
> behind the
> > >> wheels), but it hasn't been run since 1994. Any
> advice on how
> to go about
> > >>
> > >
> > >- - - - - - - - - - - - - -
> > >
> > >Oh, is that all? There are quite a few web sites
> that contain
> lots of info
> > >on the correct procedures for resurrecting a car.
> I think
> there is way too
> > >much to remember and type into an e-mail, and I
> wouldn't want
> you to miss a
> > >step. Your best bet is to take everything apart,
> clean every
> piece, and put
> > >it all back together, replacing anything that is
> worn. (Allow
> at least two
> > >weekends for this job.)
> > >
> > >Maybe some other listers can suggest the best web
> sites for
> real help! :-)
> > >
> > >Allen Hefner
> > >SCCA Philly Region Rally Steward
> > >'77 Midget
> > >'92 Mitsubishi Expo LRV Sport
=====
Dan Dwelley
77 Midget
Alexandria, Va.
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