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Re: Master Cylinder sleeving (dual bore)

To: "Vrba, Dave" <Dave.Vrba@am.sony.com>
Subject: Re: Master Cylinder sleeving (dual bore)
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2000 20:10:06 -0800
Cc: "'grbyrns@ucdavis.edu'" <grbyrns@ucdavis.edu>, spridgets@autox.team.net
References: <0DE752C748D0D211A6BE0090272B960BA92F6A@us-sj-xmsg-2.am.sony.com>
Hi David,

I have a contact in CA that over bores the brake MC's.  He also sells the kits
for the over bore.  This is a much better way to go.  He's here in N. CA too.  I
have seen his work on MGA's which use the same MC, so a Sprite MC is the same
unit.

Let me know and I will get the name for you.

Rick

"Vrba, Dave" wrote:

> Sierra Specialty gets my vote too.  Great turn around and much cheaper than
> most.
>
> Sierra Specialty Automotive   (Joe)
> 3494 Chandler Road
> Quincy, CA  95971
> 1 800 4-BRASS-1
> 1 800 427-2771
> 530 283-4845  FAX
>
> Just a note on a couple of things if you do a brass sleeve job on your MC.
>
> 1)  Clean out all the threaded holes with a tap before you try to
> reassemble.  The "cleaning" process clogged up the threads in my unit.
> Assembly is much easier.  (Bench bleed)
> 2)  STAY AWAY FROM PAPER GASKETS.  Use cork.  I had a "wicking" leak from
> the top gasket when I used a paper gasket.  Couldn't stop it with all the
> torque I could muster on the hold down screws.  Switched to cork, leak
> stopped.
>
> David L. Vrba
> '62 Sprite MKII
> Dublin, CA
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: grbyrns@ucdavis.edu [mailto:grbyrns@ucdavis.edu]
> Sent: Thursday, March 16, 2000 8:11 AM
> To: spridgets@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Dems da ...
>
> Please be sure to very carefully examine the bottom of each MC bore.  The
> water in the fluid settles to the bottom and will corrode small pits in the
> bottom of the bores that will prevent ever getting a leak free MC.  The
> fella at Sierra Speciality(check archives) bores them out and sleeves them
> with brass.  He did a great job on mine and not a drop of leakage since.
>
>                                 Regards, Glen Byrns
>
> >I got the courage up to pull the MC out.  The first thing that I learned
> was
> >don't push in on the pushrods when the brake lines are off. :)
> >
> >The piece coming out, that is identified in Hayne's manual as a brake bore
> >'valve', looks different from the Lockheed supplied part.  The piece that
> >came out is a rubber over plastic assembly while the supplied part is
> >plastic with a tiny little metal strip in it.  The new part doesn't look
> >like it is the same depth.  Anyone have any info for me?
> >
> >For a system that has been bled so many times, it was scary to see the crap
> >coming out of there.  What I'm seeing on the metal doesn't make me feel all
> >that good either.  I'm struggling with myself over whether to try to hone
> it
> >myself or bring it in and let someone who knows what they are doing, advise
> >me on its condition.  My opinion is that it can probably be cleaned up.
> >There are no obvious 'pits' that I can see, but there is something that
> >looks like corrosion.
> >
> >While I'm there, I figure that I may as well change the lines and hoses.
> >And while they're out, I may as well clean up a bit more of the engine
> >compartment.  And while I'm doing that, if I could fix at least one front
> >fender ...  shouldn't I do the inner kick panel at the same time?  Wouldn't
> >it then make more sense to also do the floors and rocker panels?  If I'm
> >going to do the engine compartment, maybe I should pull the engine to make
> >it easier?  This time, I would want to paint the engine while it's out.
> You
> >see what's happening to me?  Negotiations are in process to buy another
> >Sprite so that I can restore one 'and' drive one.  They would have to take
> >turns.  The one that I am considering, is rustier than mine.  ( no floors )
> >
> >But back to the brakes ... do I have the wrong part?  Does anyone know from
> >my description?
> >
> >Robert Duquette
> >Ottawa ON Canada
> >http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette
> >RobertDuquette@Sympatico.ca
> >'65 RHD BRG Sprite
> >
> >


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