There's another question that I've been meaning to ask. What's a bench
bleed?
And after looking at the clutch line ... would it be easier to remove the
slave cylinder and bleed this thing with the line going "up" or "level". My
clutch line does a few loop the loops.
Now look, you've got me started. Do you use a gasket sealant as well as the
gaskets. I always do, but wondered of the possibility of contaminating the
brake fluid.
Bet you're sorry that I have the day off!!!
Thanks,
Robert D.
-----Original Message-----
From Vrba, Dave <Dave.Vrba at am.sony.com>
To: 'grbyrns@ucdavis.edu' <grbyrns@ucdavis.edu>; spridgets@autox.team.net
<spridgets@autox.team.net>
Date: March 16, 2000 12:28 PM
Subject: Master Cylinder sleeving (dual bore)
>Sierra Specialty gets my vote too. Great turn around and much cheaper than
>most.
>
>Sierra Specialty Automotive (Joe)
>3494 Chandler Road
>Quincy, CA 95971
>1 800 4-BRASS-1
>1 800 427-2771
>530 283-4845 FAX
>
>Just a note on a couple of things if you do a brass sleeve job on your MC.
>
>1) Clean out all the threaded holes with a tap before you try to
>reassemble. The "cleaning" process clogged up the threads in my unit.
>Assembly is much easier. (Bench bleed)
>2) STAY AWAY FROM PAPER GASKETS. Use cork. I had a "wicking" leak from
>the top gasket when I used a paper gasket. Couldn't stop it with all the
>torque I could muster on the hold down screws. Switched to cork, leak
>stopped.
>
>David L. Vrba
>'62 Sprite MKII
>Dublin, CA
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: grbyrns@ucdavis.edu [mailto:grbyrns@ucdavis.edu]
>Sent: Thursday, March 16, 2000 8:11 AM
>To: spridgets@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: Dems da ...
>
>
>Please be sure to very carefully examine the bottom of each MC bore. The
>water in the fluid settles to the bottom and will corrode small pits in the
>bottom of the bores that will prevent ever getting a leak free MC. The
>fella at Sierra Speciality(check archives) bores them out and sleeves them
>with brass. He did a great job on mine and not a drop of leakage since.
>
> Regards, Glen Byrns
>
>>I got the courage up to pull the MC out. The first thing that I learned
>was
>>don't push in on the pushrods when the brake lines are off. :)
>>
>>The piece coming out, that is identified in Hayne's manual as a brake bore
>>'valve', looks different from the Lockheed supplied part. The piece that
>>came out is a rubber over plastic assembly while the supplied part is
>>plastic with a tiny little metal strip in it. The new part doesn't look
>>like it is the same depth. Anyone have any info for me?
>>
>>For a system that has been bled so many times, it was scary to see the
crap
>>coming out of there. What I'm seeing on the metal doesn't make me feel
all
>>that good either. I'm struggling with myself over whether to try to hone
>it
>>myself or bring it in and let someone who knows what they are doing,
advise
>>me on its condition. My opinion is that it can probably be cleaned up.
>>There are no obvious 'pits' that I can see, but there is something that
>>looks like corrosion.
>>
>>While I'm there, I figure that I may as well change the lines and hoses.
>>And while they're out, I may as well clean up a bit more of the engine
>>compartment. And while I'm doing that, if I could fix at least one front
>>fender ... shouldn't I do the inner kick panel at the same time?
Wouldn't
>>it then make more sense to also do the floors and rocker panels? If I'm
>>going to do the engine compartment, maybe I should pull the engine to make
>>it easier? This time, I would want to paint the engine while it's out.
>You
>>see what's happening to me? Negotiations are in process to buy another
>>Sprite so that I can restore one 'and' drive one. They would have to take
>>turns. The one that I am considering, is rustier than mine. ( no
floors )
>>
>>But back to the brakes ... do I have the wrong part? Does anyone know
from
>>my description?
>>
>>Robert Duquette
>>Ottawa ON Canada
>>http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette
>>RobertDuquette@Sympatico.ca
>>'65 RHD BRG Sprite
>>
>>
>
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