>Robert, it sounds like you need a therapist!
You're only catching on now!? :)
> Slow down and don't let it all
>get to you at once. If you start to look at the ENTIRE car as a broken
>thing, you will get discouraged.
When I bought the car, it was brought to a roadworthy condition by a local
lbc garage. I considered it to be a rolling restoration and I still do.
> Take each small job as a...er, well...small
>job, and it will look much easier. It is a common problem to get caught up
>in all the stuff that's wrong with the car, and forget how much fun it is
to
>do the work and eventually to drive the bugger. Lots of LBCs are sitting
in
>garages, neglected and forgotten, because of this.
Although I am basically ignorant of how to effect most repairs, I enjoy
working on the little beast. There is no pressure, because I don't 'need'
the car. If I want to drop whatever it is that I'm doing and walk away, I
do.
>I made a list and posted it in the garage. When I completed each job (each
>weekend) I checked it off the list. When I was ready to throw the list
away,
>the car was ready to go to the PA inspection station.
>
>Determine your expectations for the car. Do you want to drive it between
>work sessions? (A rolling restoration.) Or do you want to take a year (or
2,
>or 3, or 4) and do a complete resto? That may determine whether you want
to
>pull the engine to clean the bay. If it's a rolling resto, don't pull the
>engine if the engine, tranny and clutch are all fine. Just squirt some
>Castrol Super Clean (or whatever it's called) in there and hose it off.
When I bought the car, I gave myself 30 years to restore it. Well to be
truthful, I thought that I was going to probably drive it into the ground,
until I spoke with Jeff ( of this list ), whose Sprite I found on an
internet search and also found the Moss catalogue in the box of spare parts.
Then I gave myself 30 years to do the rolling restoration bit.
I was kinda kidding ( a bit, ... maybe ) about going beyond removing the
fender. I am almost to the point of achieving my goals for this spring,
which is brakes, front end, and removing those welded on front fenders. I
may do the engine compartment also ( 'cause it bugs me ) and I may pull the
engine out to do so, because having done it once now for the clutch, it
isn't such a big deal anymore ( famous last words :)).
I generally pull some parts into the house for winter work and then do some
sort of project in the spring before it hits the road. I may change my
schedule for this and future years though. July is often too hot to be
comfortable while driving. It's a good month for painting.
>As far as the brakes, buy a rebuilt MC from White Post to be on the safe
>side. Then get the copper/nickel alloy brake pipe set, and braided brake
>hoses from Moss. I used these and they are easy to install. Everything
fit
>perfectly, and the alloy pipes are easy to bend.
The verdict is in on the MC. It needs resleeving. The local guys send them
to White Rose and I'm waiting for various prices on resleeving with brass or
stainless steel and just getting a new replacement.
I bought the copper/nickel alloy lines some time ago in anticipation of this
event. What remains to be seen is if they will be right for the RHD.
Boy, will I be upset if they don't fit, since I specified at the time. ) I
don't have new hoses yet and was debating whether to go for braided or not.
They are more difficult to inspect, aren't they? Opinions are welcome.
On the other stuff, ( floors, sills, a-posts, rear fenders and kick panels )
they are all related, aren't they. They don't need to be done yet and will
probably get done next year if all goes well.
>Good luck,
Thanks!
Robert D.
BTW, the Sprite is my therapist. I find it quite theraputic(sp) to work on
it. :)
-----Original Message-----
From Ajhsys at aol.com <
>In a message dated 3/16/00 2:18:56 AM Eastern Standard Time,
>RobertDuquette@sympatico.ca writes:
>
><< While I'm there, I figure that I may as well change the lines and hoses.
> And while they're out, I may as well clean up a bit more of the engine
> compartment. And while I'm doing that, if I could fix at least one front
> fender ... shouldn't I do the inner kick panel at the same time?
Wouldn't
> it then make more sense to also do the floors and rocker panels? If I'm
> going to do the engine compartment, maybe I should pull the engine to make
> it easier? This time, I would want to paint the engine while it's out.
You
> see what's happening to me? Negotiations are in process to buy another
> Sprite so that I can restore one 'and' drive one. They would have to take
> turns. The one that I am considering, is rustier than mine. ( no
floors )
>>>
>
>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
>
>Robert, it sounds like you need a therapist! Slow down and don't let it
all
>get to you at once. If you start to look at the ENTIRE car as a broken
>thing, you will get discouraged. Take each small job as a...er,
well...small
>job, and it will look much easier. It is a common problem to get caught up
>in all the stuff that's wrong with the car, and forget how much fun it is
to
>do the work and eventually to drive the bugger. Lots of LBCs are sitting
in
>garages, neglected and forgotten, because of this.
>
>I made a list and posted it in the garage. When I completed each job (each
>weekend) I checked it off the list. When I was ready to throw the list
away,
>the car was ready to go to the PA inspection station.
>
>Determine your expectations for the car. Do you want to drive it between
>work sessions? (A rolling restoration.) Or do you want to take a year (or
2,
>or 3, or 4) and do a complete resto? That may determine whether you want
to
>pull the engine to clean the bay. If it's a rolling resto, don't pull the
>engine if the engine, tranny and clutch are all fine. Just squirt some
>Castrol Super Clean (or whatever it's called) in there and hose it off.
>
>As far as the brakes, buy a rebuilt MC from White Post to be on the safe
>side. Then get the copper/nickel alloy brake pipe set, and braided brake
>hoses from Moss. I used these and they are easy to install. Everything
fit
>perfectly, and the alloy pipes are easy to bend.
>
>Good luck,
>
>Allen Hefner
>SCCA Philly Region Rally Steward
>'77 Midget
>'92 Mitsubishi Expo LRV Sport
>
|