Rob,
The main thing is that the bar should be as long as possible and as
horizontal as possible. Also it works better on one side of the car to the
other so depending on whether the car is for road or track you set it up to
work better for left hand turns or right hand turns (my car feels the same
either way which perhaps has more to say about one I am not a professional
racing driver than the Panhard rod - or does it?).
Peter May in the UK or Tom Colby in the USA have suitable kits - I think the
Frontline kit is maybe a Tom Colby item. If you really want to make your own
one end to the axle case - one end to the car and a book purely on suspension
to make sure you get it right.
As far as I know and think you get no anti-tramp benefit from a panhard but
might pick up a bit of lateral stiffness from the anti-tramp bars (might
explain why I didn't feel a lot of benefit from the Panhard when I fitted it).
D' Tweeks in Wrexham have spherical rod end bearings (Rose is a brand name
like hoover) but you might find them cheaper elsewhere (advertisers in CCC).
Daniel1312
In a message dated 20/01/00 19:22:10 GMT Standard Time,
rob@thomasr.greatxscape.net writes:
<< Does anyone know if there are any particular dimensions that must be
adhered
to when making up a Panhard Rod? I've seen a car with a kit that ran a rod
from one rear shock/axle bracket to a fabricated point on the middle of the
car, close to the handbrake adjustment. If the car was looked at from a
side view, would the bar have to run parallel to a line running from the
axle/spring joint to the spring/chassis pivot bolt? Presumably it could do
the work of an Anti-tramp bar to a certain extent. Where can I get the
"Rose joints" in the U.K? (The Hangar at work has to scrap them).
>>
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