Note that there have been failures of drilled rotors.
On the street you don't need drilled rotors, no matter
how enthusiastic you drive. The appropriate solution
is a better set of pads. Bendix Metal Kings aren't
bad. Black Flash are great, but the best are the Carbon
Kevlar pads. They have race pads and a rotor friendly
street pad.
The stopping is awesome and they don't fade ever (at
least the rotor munching race pads don't)
Try Speedwell or Winner's Circle or one of the race
supply places....
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: <Ajhsys@aol.com>
To: <gottstein@erols.com>; <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, 24 August 1999 4:08
Subject: Re: Drilled rotors
> In a message dated 8/23/99 11:43:26 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> gottstein@erols.com writes:
>
> << Apparently I need to get new front rotors for my Midget, so I was
> wondering, is it worthwhile to get those "performance" drilled rotors, or
> will I be fine with the regular replacement kind? Anything to stop the
> little guy faster would be welcomed. >>
>
> - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
>
> The reason for cross drilling brake rotors is to vent hot air away from
the
> pads, thereby reducing fade. This is really only necessary when you are
> driving in competition. On the road your pads will have plenty of time to
> cool between braking.
>
> If you have experienced a lot of brake fade in whatever type of driving
you
> do, go for the drilled rotors. If you haven't, stay with the less
expensive
> solids. Theoretically, a solid rotor has more surface area than a cross
> drilled rotor, so it should stop the car faster, until the pads overheat.
> (IMHO of course.)
>
> Allen Hefner
> '77 Midget
> '92 Mitsubishi Expo LRV Sport
>
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