Miq ,
About how wide would you recommend the grooves to be ? Also any thoughts
about their orientation and the spacing between each groove ? I like the
idea .
Mark Hanna
AN5
> -----Original Message-----
> From: miq@teleport.com [SMTP:miq@teleport.com]
> Sent: Monday, August 23, 1999 3:12 PM
> To: Ajhsys@aol.com
> Cc: gottstein@erols.com; spridgets@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Drilled rotors
>
> Ajhsys@aol.com says:
> >
> > In a message dated 8/23/99 11:43:26 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> > gottstein@erols.com writes:
> >
> > << Apparently I need to get new front rotors for my Midget, so I was
> > wondering, is it worthwhile to get those "performance" drilled rotors,
> or
> > will I be fine with the regular replacement kind? Anything to stop the
> > little guy faster would be welcomed. >>
> >
> > - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
> >
> > The reason for cross drilling brake rotors is to vent hot air away from
> the
> > pads, thereby reducing fade. This is really only necessary when you are
>
> > driving in competition. On the road your pads will have plenty of time
> to
> > cool between braking.
> >
> > If you have experienced a lot of brake fade in whatever type of driving
> you
> > do, go for the drilled rotors. If you haven't, stay with the less
> expensive
> > solids. Theoretically, a solid rotor has more surface area than a cross
>
> > drilled rotor, so it should stop the car faster, until the pads
> overheat.
> > (IMHO of course.)
>
> And if youare experiencing enough fade and heat to warrant "cross drilled"
> rotors, you will likely also be experiencing enough heat and stress to
> snap
> the rotor from the hub like a cheap straw hat.
>
> You are much better off getting solid rotors slotted. A competent
> machinist can cut the grooves the same depth as the recommended wear, and
> then not only will you get the benefits of gas venting and cooling, but
> also the strength of a solid rotor and a tell tale for rotor wear.
>
>
> --
> __
> Miq Millman miq@teleport.com
> Tualatin, OR
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