The first thing I would do is call the SCCA 1-303-694-SCCA (7222) and order a
solo
2 rule book. This will tell you what you can and can't do with your car and be
legal for whichever class you decide to compete in. As far as welding the doors
shut, the only class that that is allowed is the modified class. This is the
class
with the fiberglass, rotary-powered rocket cars. In the prepared class, "Doors
may
be pinned, but not bolted, to prevent their opening in an accident. Standard
door
hinges and latch mechanisms may be removed, but the doors shall be capable of
being opened or removed". As Allen suggested, I would consider running in DSP
(ESP
next year, so don't paint it on your car). This class allows many suspension
modifications, but limited engine mods. This is the class I run in because to be
competetive in the next higher class, D prepared, I would have to spend several
thou on a race engine, gut the interior, and go with fiberglass body panels.
> My questions are:
> (1) Considering the 1973 is fairly sound--needing lower front door posts on
> both sides, cosmetic work on the right rocker, replacement of the metal below
> the boot lid, and a new rear boot floor--, and considering that I do have
> strong limitations on money, Can anyone tell me the order of work that I
> might get the most payback from doing on this car, in terms of turning it
> into a non-street, strictly Autocross car? That is assuming I do the
> bodywork first.
this is what I did for D Street Prepared:1. good race tires2. work on the
suspension
A. 520 lb Winner's Circle front springs ($95)
B. Lower the rear w/ blocks to level out the car ($35)
C. Offset front bushings on the top. ($65)
D. I run a 3/4 swaybar in the front, but I know people who run the stock bar
w/good results
E. Panhard bar ($200, less if you make it yourself)
F. I have a 5/8" rear sway bar, but if you use the stock front bar this is
unecessary.
3. work on the engine
A. Long center branch header ($150, less used)
B. Long velocity stacks, good air filters like K&N ($100)
C. You can port the head for the first 1 inch and match the intake to it.
D. You can take .010" off the cylider head.
* the last 2 may give you some hp increase but may not be worth the cost for a
regional car
E. Big carbs
> (3) What type of engine modifications would I need to make in rebuilding the
> 1275 that came with the 1973 to make it the best engine for an Auto cross car?
If you want to run in Prepared:
1.a good cam like the 649
2. LCB header
3. 1 1/2" carbs with modified MGB intake or $$$Weber$$$
4. raise the compression
* flat top pistons
* shave the head and block
5. Ported cylinder head
6. Rebuild for durablity
7. Anything Vizard says in his book.
That's my 2 cents.
Good luck,
Rick Williams
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