Mark,
I don't see any specification for torque settings either. Make the nuts
snug enough so you dont get any binding on the bearing and set th lob tab.
I usually make a punch mark on the nut so I have a reference point of where
it was positioned before it was removed, but that doesn't help you now.
You don't need a longer rod. You can back off the tension by using the hand
brake cable adjustment located at the bracket on the rear axle. Your shop
manual should have details (mine also shows an illustration).
Gerard
At 7:25 AM -0600 5/18/99, Haynes, Mark wrote:
>Spridgeteers- After all of the discussion of rear hubs, bearings, and
>sealing, I got around to putting the newly refitted hubs on the mkII. Having
>never done this, I found when the nuts are tightened, it causes the bearing
>to lock up/run roughly. I can't find a torque spec for it, and the Bentley
>manual doesn't say anything except "reassemble in reverse order". How tight
>do I go with the nut? do I tighten it until it locks up the bearing, and
>then back off to a free running state? I assume the lock tab is there for
>just such a reason.
> BTW thanks for all of the input even though I've just been lurking
>on this subject. Special thanks to whomsoever suggested locking the rear
>bearings with bearing mount if they were 'slip-fit' --one was.
>Mark Haynes
>'62 HAN6 RMVR
> P.S.With the later style backing plates, the hand brake
>actuator rod on the driver's side (short rod) holds the shoe in contact with
>the drum. Is there a longer rod to be used with the later style brakes??
G G Gerard Chateauvieux
E A
R R pixelsmith@gerardsgarage.com
A A
R G Pixelsmith on Duty
D E
S http://www.gerardsgarage.com
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