David,
If the '73 Midget is a "round-arch", I'd go for restoration. Not many around
and next to the Bugeye, the most sought after.
WFO Herb
Angela Hervey-Tennyson & Peter Westcott wrote:
> Two things
> Don't make your engine too peaky
> Morris Minor diffs are 4.55:1 and will do the job nicely. If you can run
> to a Quaiffe centre as well it will be very tasty.
>
> Peter
>
> ----------
> From: Lancer7676@aol.com
> To: spridgets@autox.team.net
> Subject: Autocross car preparation.
> Date: Tuesday, 18 May 1999 22:13
>
> I have been undecided as to the direction to go with my LBC's and have been
>
> considering a possiblity. I would like some input from the list. I have a
>
> good running 1979 Midget. I bought the Midget in good running and good
> looking shape to have one to drive while I worked on my 1967 Sprite, which
> is
> now, and yes, still, a body shell. Lots of welding and finishing to do
> there
> although I have completed the 1275 engine rebuild and it is ready to drop
> in.
> I have also acquired a 1973 Midget, restorable, but I have vacillated
> between using that body in the rebirth of my 1967 (I like the round wheel
> arches), restoring it (really dont want to get into that much work
> again--the
> 1967 is taking all my time), or, now I am thinking of turning it into an
> Autocross car.
>
> My questions are:
> (1) Considering the 1973 is fairly sound--needing lower front door posts
> on
> both sides, cosmetic work on the right rocker, replacement of the metal
> below
> the boot lid, and a new rear boot floor--, and considering that I do have
> strong limitations on money, Can anyone tell me the order of work that I
> might get the most payback from doing on this car, in terms of turning it
> into a non-street, strictly Autocross car? That is assuming I do the
> bodywork first.
>
> (2) Since the car would be utilized only as an Autocross car, and would be
>
> towed to the events, Is it necessary to replace the lower front door hinge
> posts? Or would it be acceptable to clean out the rust as much as
> possible,
> treat it to stop it, connect the door by the top hinge and the door latch,
> then to weld the door solidly shut on the inside?
>
> (3) What type of engine modifications would I need to make in rebuilding
> the
> 1275 that came with the 1973 to make it the best engine for an Auto cross
> car?
>
> (4) I have been told I need a rear end with high ratio--like high 4.+.
> Are
> these available as standard rear end ratios or are these specially built
> differentials?
>
> (5) Any other information regarding this possible rebuild will be welcome
> and usefull to me--including words of advice, tire types and sizes, used
> but
> good Autocross parts and/or equipment, books of reference, and/or websites
> to
> go to with Autocross rebuild information.
>
> Thanks guys!! Your input will help me make a decision about the direction
> I
> want to go with that '73!
>
> David
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