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With that much oil loss, a compression test itself would be revealing. The v=
arious diagnostic tests that I saw suggested are all good paths to take as w=
ell. Although unlikely I would also look at the coolant for signs of oil. Bu=
t given the sudden occurrence I would expect a broken part, e.g., ring, pist=
on, gasket. If I were doing an engine rebuild, with doing the labor myself, I=
would expect a cost of 3000 to 4000 in machine work and parts based on my r=
ecent experiences with race engines for my MGA. But there are lots of these c=
ars so used engines might be available.=20
=20
Sent from my iPhone
> On Nov 20, 2025, at 6:54=E2=80=AFAM, Moose <eric@megageek.com> wrote:
>=20
> =EF=BB=BFI forgot the most important part, engine has about 154,000 miles=
.
>=20
> Moose
>=20
>=20
>=20
> My SO has a daily driver of a 2000 Honda Accord EX with a 2.3L I4 F OHV e=
ngine. She loves this car, and it's in REALLY great shape. She has had the c=
ar for a little over 3 years and she changes the oil every 3000 miles faithf=
ully. The only problem, about a month or so ago the SR5 and check engine l=
ight came on. I got the codes and it was coming on the evap leak. As I was=
looking for into it, it seemed to be a problem to diagnose (need smoke gene=
rator, computers to turn on an off relays) and my time has been split with l=
ots of other projects. So I made an appointment with my local trusted mecha=
nic. Note, recently we also got her another car, so she switches between th=
em and this isn't a daily, but semi-daily driver.
>=20
> Then 2 days ago, the oil light comes on. She checks the oil, the stick is=
dry! She puts some oil in (it takes 3 qts to come up to full.) Then drives h=
ome. I check it the next morning. A qt low. So we take it out for a short=
ride. No blue smoke under load, no white smoke. Very faint smell of burni=
ng oil. No leaks anywhere. I did an oil change in March, and she hasn't p=
ut 3000 miles on it yet. =20
>=20
> For a last hope, I check the intake hoping to find oil in it and maybe it'=
s just an erg valve. No oil. 8>( So, car is burning oil. I do some researc=
h and find that some Hondas had issues with rings.
>=20
> OK, a ring job is more than likely more than the car is worth, but here is=
the rub. The car is in great shape, and she LOVES the car. So I'd be will=
ing to put money into it, even if it was more than it was worth as she would=
want to keep this one for a long time.
>=20
> My questions are...
>=20
> Is there anything else I can check? (Note, I don't think I'll see a probl=
em with compression testing as the oil can still 'seal up' the cylinders, ri=
ght?)
> Could this be related to the codes? (I don't believe so, but I'm not that w=
ell versed on Hondas.)
>=20
> Would a ring job be better than a re-manufactured engine?
>=20
> Has anyone ever put a re-manufactured engine in a Honda? I did one in my J=
eep decades ago and it went well.
>=20
> Thanks. _______________________________________________
>=20
>=20
> _______________________________________________
>=20
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/arc=
hive
>=20
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/james.=
f.juhas@snet.net
>=20
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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto">With that much oil loss, a compression test=
itself would be revealing. The various diagnostic tests that I saw suggeste=
d are all good paths to take as well. Although unlikely I would also look at=
the coolant for signs of oil. But given the sudden occurrence I would expec=
t a broken part, e.g., ring, piston, gasket. If I were doing an engine rebui=
ld, with doing the labor myself, I would expect a cost of 3000 to 4000 in ma=
chine work and parts based on my recent experiences with race engines for my=
MGA. But there are lots of these cars so used engines might be available.&n=
bsp;<div> <br id=3D"lineBreakAtBeginningOfSignature"><div dir=3D"ltr">S=
ent from my iPhone</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br><blockquote type=3D"cite">On No=
v 20, 2025, at 6:54=E2=80=AFAM, Moose <eric@megageek.com> wrote:<br><b=
r></blockquote></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=BF<fo=
nt size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">I forgot the most important part, en=
gine
has about 154,000 miles.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">Moose</font>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">My SO has a daily driver of a  =
;2000
Honda Accord EX with a 2.3L I4 F OHV engine. She loves this car,
and it's in REALLY great shape. She has had the car for a little over 3
years and she changes the oil every 3000 miles faithfully. The only
problem, about a month or so ago the SR5 and check engine light came on.
I got the codes and it was coming on the evap leak. As I was
looking for into it, it seemed to be a problem to diagnose (need smoke
generator, computers to turn on an off relays) and my time has been split
with lots of other projects. So I made an appointment with my local
trusted mechanic. Note, recently we also got her another car, so
she switches between them and this isn't a daily, but semi-daily driver.</fo=
nt><font size=3D"3">
<br>
</font><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif"><br>
Then 2 days ago, the oil light comes on. She checks the oil, the
stick is dry! She puts some oil in (it takes 3 qts to come up to full.)
Then drives home. I check it the next morning. A qt low. S=
o
we take it out for a short ride. No blue smoke under load, no white
smoke. Very faint smell of burning oil. No leaks anywhere.
I did an oil change in March, and she hasn't put 3000 miles on it
yet. </font><font size=3D"3"> <br>
</font><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif"><br>
For a last hope, I check the intake hoping to find oil in it and maybe
it's just an erg valve. No oil. 8>( So, car is burning oil. I=
do some research and find that some Hondas had issues with rings. </font><fo=
nt size=3D"3"><br>
</font><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif"><br>
OK, a ring job is more than likely more than the car is worth, but here
is the rub. The car is in great shape, and she LOVES the car. So=
I'd be willing to put money into it, even if it was more than it was worth
as she would want to keep this one for a long time. </font><font size=3D"3">=
<br>
</font><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif"><br>
My questions are...</font><font size=3D"3"> <br>
</font><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif"><br>
Is there anything else I can check? (Note, I don't think I'll see
a problem with compression testing as the oil can still 'seal up' the cylind=
ers,
right?) <br>
Could this be related to the codes? (I don't believe so, but I'm not that
well versed on Hondas.)</font><font size=3D"3"> <br>
</font><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif"><br>
Would a ring job be better than a re-manufactured engine?</font><font size=3D=
"3">
<br>
</font><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif"><br>
Has anyone ever put a re-manufactured engine in a Honda? I did one
in my Jeep decades ago and it went well.</font><font size=3D"3"> <br>
</font><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif"><br>
Thanks.</font><font size=3D"3"> </font><tt><font size=3D"2">________________=
_______________________________<br>
<br>
</font></tt>
<br><span>_______________________________________________</span><br><span></=
span><br><span>Shop-talk@autox.team.net</span><br><span>Donate: http://www.t=
eam.net/donate.html</span><br><span>Suggested annual donation $12.96</=
span><br><span>Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox=
.team.net/archive</span><br><span></span><br><span>Unsubscribe/Manage: http:=
//autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/james.f.juhas@snet.net</span><br>=
<span></span><br></div></blockquote></div></body></html>=
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