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You might try a leak down test after the compression test. While it won=E2=80=
=99t tell you the condition of the oil ring, it will give you a better idea o=
f the general condition of the engine.=20
Might also be valve seals.=20
Pat Horne=20
We support Habitat for Humanity
On Nov 20, 2025, at 5:49=E2=80=AFAM, Moose <eric@megageek.com> wrote:
=EF=BB=BFMy SO has a daily driver of a 2000 Honda Accord EX with a 2.3L I4 =
F OHV engine. She loves this car, and it's in REALLY great shape. She has h=
ad the car for a little over 3 years and she changes the oil every 3000 mile=
s faithfully. The only problem, about a month or so ago the SR5 and check e=
ngine light came on. I got the codes and it was coming on the evap leak. A=
s I was looking for into it, it seemed to be a problem to diagnose (need smo=
ke generator, computers to turn on an off relays) and my time has been split=
with lots of other projects. So I made an appointment with my local truste=
d mechanic. Note, recently we also got her another car, so she switches bet=
ween them and this isn't a daily, but semi-daily driver.
Then 2 days ago, the oil light comes on. She checks the oil, the stick is d=
ry! She puts some oil in (it takes 3 qts to come up to full.) Then drives ho=
me. I check it the next morning. A qt low. So we take it out for a short r=
ide. No blue smoke under load, no white smoke. Very faint smell of burning=
oil. No leaks anywhere. I did an oil change in March, and she hasn't put=
3000 miles on it yet. =20
For a last hope, I check the intake hoping to find oil in it and maybe it's j=
ust an erg valve. No oil. 8>( So, car is burning oil. I do some research a=
nd find that some Hondas had issues with rings.
OK, a ring job is more than likely more than the car is worth, but here is t=
he rub. The car is in great shape, and she LOVES the car. So I'd be willin=
g to put money into it, even if it was more than it was worth as she would w=
ant to keep this one for a long time.
My questions are...
Is there anything else I can check? (Note, I don't think I'll see a problem=
with compression testing as the oil can still 'seal up' the cylinders, righ=
t?)
Could this be related to the codes? (I don't believe so, but I'm not that we=
ll versed on Hondas.)
Would a ring job be better than a re-manufactured engine?
Has anyone ever put a re-manufactured engine in a Honda? I did one in my Je=
ep decades ago and it went well.
Thanks.
_______________________________________________
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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto">You might try a leak down test after the co=
mpression test. While it won=E2=80=99t tell you the condition of the oil rin=
g, it will give you a better idea of the general condition of the engine.&nb=
sp;<div><br></div><div>Might also be valve seals. </div><div><br id=3D"=
lineBreakAtBeginningOfSignature"><div dir=3D"ltr">Pat Horne <div>We sup=
port Habitat for Humanity</div><div><br></div></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br>On N=
ov 20, 2025, at 5:49=E2=80=AFAM, Moose <eric@megageek.com> wrote:<br><=
br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=BF<font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">My S=
O has a daily driver of a 2000
Honda Accord EX with a 2.3L I4 F OHV engine. She loves this car,
and it's in REALLY great shape. She has had the car for a little over 3
years and she changes the oil every 3000 miles faithfully. The only
problem, about a month or so ago the SR5 and check engine light came on.
I got the codes and it was coming on the evap leak. As I was
looking for into it, it seemed to be a problem to diagnose (need smoke
generator, computers to turn on an off relays) and my time has been split
with lots of other projects. So I made an appointment with my local
trusted mechanic. Note, recently we also got her another car, so
she switches between them and this isn't a daily, but semi-daily driver.</fo=
nt>
<br>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">Then 2 days ago, the oil light come=
s
on. She checks the oil, the stick is dry! She puts some oil in (it
takes 3 qts to come up to full.) Then drives home. I check it the
next morning. A qt low. So we take it out for a short ride.
No blue smoke under load, no white smoke. Very faint smell
of burning oil. No leaks anywhere. I did an oil change in
March, and she hasn't put 3000 miles on it yet. </font>
<br>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">For a last hope, I check the intake=
hoping to find oil in it and maybe it's just an erg valve. No oil.
8>( So, car is burning oil. I do some research and find that some
Hondas had issues with rings. </font>
<br>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">OK, a ring job is more than likely m=
ore
than the car is worth, but here is the rub. The car is in great shape,=
and she LOVES the car. So I'd be willing to put money into it, even
if it was more than it was worth as she would want to keep this one for
a long time. </font>
<br>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">My questions are...</font>
<br>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">Is there anything else I can check?=
(Note, I don't think I'll see a problem with compression testing
as the oil can still 'seal up' the cylinders, right?) </font>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">Could this be related to the codes?=
(I don't believe so, but I'm not that well versed on Hondas.)</font>
<br>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">Would a ring job be better than a r=
e-manufactured
engine?</font>
<br>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">Has anyone ever put a re-manufactur=
ed
engine in a Honda? I did one in my Jeep decades ago and it went well.<=
/font>
<br>
<br><font size=3D"2" face=3D"sans-serif">Thanks.</font>
<br><span>_______________________________________________</span><br><span></=
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