Your starter has a "bonded" rubber drive that connects the drive gear on the
starter to the shaft. The rubber inside the coupling comes unbonded from
its housing and basically "slips". I have temporarily repaired them by
taking them apart and reglueing them together with "superglue" type anerobic
adhesive. This "temporary repair has actually lasted many years. There is
a replacement drive available for around $100. 00 that is a good permenant
fix. I have seen brain dead electrical rebuilders weld this drive up solid
in an attempt to fix it. This doesn't work as the stater needs the
cushioning that the rubber provides. Without this cushioning effect, the
teeth of the ring gears get sheared off when you try to start the car.
Regards, Greg Solow
-----Original Message-----
From: John T. Blair <jblair@exis.net>
To: edherman@concentric.net <edherman@concentric.net>;
morgans@autox.team.net <morgans@autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, September 15, 1999 3:29 PM
Subject: +4 Starters
>At 02:20 PM 9/15/99 -0400, ed herman wrote:
>
>>I've got the bullet nose type, and the "clutch is not engaging" according
>>to the locals.
>
>
>Ed,
>
> You say the "clutch is NOT engaging". When you hit the ign. switch,
>do you hear the starter spin up, but it doesn't crank then eng?
>
> If so, I won't sware to it, but try cleaning the bendix. This is a very
>common problem with the inertial type starters. My 67 Spit used to do that
>all the time (well about every 9 mo.) Simply remove the starter and clean
>the bendix down using a brush and a good solvent like varsol, etc. Then
>wash it off with a hose (as much pressure as you can get). According to
my
>books there really isn't a clutch in the starter. Check you my article on
>starters on the Morgan web page (below).
>
>Based on this discussion, I'm trying to update the "Starter" article. But
>it will be a few days before it is online.
>
>John
>
>---------------------
>
>>
>>"John T. Blair" wrote:
>>
>>> At 08:16 AM 9/15/99 -0400, you wrote:
>>> >Lorne,
>>> > I have a question for the panel. I took the starter, from my 58
>>> >DHC, a TR 3, to a well respected repair shop her in Baltimore. They
have
>>> >no records on and thing past the 1960s. How do we get the old Morgan
>>> >stuff repaired in original condition? What should we be looking for
when
>>> >we have a minor repair?
>>>
>>> Ed,
>>>
>>> According to my TR3 manual your starter is a Lucas M418G and intertia
>>> drive type (see article on starters on Morgan web page). There are 2
>>> types the "eclipse" and the "S" types. From what I can tell alot of the
>>> parts for the casings are interchangable (but not the armatures). The
only
>>> visable difference is that the "Eclipse" has a hood over the and the
actual
>>> drive mech is different.
>>>
>>> The Brushes are Lucas 255659 (for both). What do you need for it? I
don't
>>> have any parts, but do have some info on them.
>>>
>>> John
>
>----------------------
>
>
>John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair@exis.net
>Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229
>
> 48 TR1800 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1109)
>71 Saab Sonett III (71500840) 75 Bricklin SV1 (0887) 77 Spitfire
>
>Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan
>Bricklin: www.bricklin.org
>
>
>
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