It has been interesting to see all the various theories on nut and bolt
tightening. However, in all cases it is advisable to consult the factory
service manual first. In the MGTD/F Workshop Manual under "Torque Spanner
Data," which should provide an indication that the factory did, in fact,
believe in torque wrenches, The listed torque value for both Connecting rod
big-end bolts, as well as Main bearing cap nuts, the values are listed as
"320 lbs. in. (to the next split pin hole) and 750 lbs. in. (to the next
split pin hole)" respectively. I realize that Mike is referring to a MPJG
engine, not a XPEG or XPAG engine and might not have the proper
documentation on it, but the general thinking from the factory did not
change much until significantly after the war, when they discovered the self
locking nut.
Additionally, it is always advisable to use the proper Loctite sealant and
properly install it. Suggestions and directions on use are available on the
Loctite site: http://www.loctite.com/
-----Original Message-----
From: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Charley & Peggy Robinson
Sent: Monday, January 07, 2013 11:05 AM
To: Duvall Video Productions
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] loctite question
Let's keep in mind that torque specs are meant to set the fastener (bolt,
stud) into the approximate middle of its elasticity range and the
torque specs are given in a range too. If a torque spec is given as,
say 40 - 50 ft-lbs I'll set my wrench for 45 and sneak up on it. One
crenelation in a castellated nut, more or less, isn't that big a deal, IMO.
CR
On 1/5/2013 10:06 PM, Duvall Video Productions wrote:
> Anyone use red loctite instead of mechanical fasteners on main cap nuts?
I
> have an MPJG engine from a TA when I torque down the mains, the holes
don't
> line up to the castle nuts for the wire. I don't want to over torque and
if
> I back them up to match the hole, I loose my torque.
>
> Suggestions?
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