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Re: MGB Heater question

To: Ryan Watson <rswatson@nyx.nyx.net>
Subject: Re: MGB Heater question
From: EMILY COWEN <ecowen@cln.etc.bc.ca>
Date: Mon, 26 May 1997 10:06:18 -0700 (PDT)
HI Ryan Watson!!

On Sun, 25 May 1997, Ryan Watson wrote:

> I don't wan't to "go cheap" as you put it, so what anti-freeze should I
>  use (or avoid). Or by going cheap do you mean using rain-water as 
> suggested in the Haynes Manual?

What I meant by "go cheap" was to leave the anti-freeze in as long as it
looks good.  The chemicals that stop water from freezing at 32 f. don't
wear out, but the anti-corrosion chemicals become used up, and you're
left with no protection from corrosion.

If you want your anti-freeze to last longer, you must convert to the
modern "closed" system that has an external reservoir that the radiator
vents into when it warms up, and draws from as it cools down.  This
limits the amount of air that comes into contact with your anti-freeze
solution.  It's an easy conversion; new rad cap, a short lenght of hose
to connect to a reservoir of about 1 quart or so.  

If you have any aluminum in your cooling system, you must buy aluminum
compatable anti-freeze.  I've seen the results of using regular
anti-freeze in an aluminum block, and wouldn't have believed the erosion
was caused just by the wrong type of anti-freeze.  Stick to a name
brand of anti-freeze... you're paying extra for the additives, not the
anti-freeze, and they work.

TTUL8r, Kirk Cowen   (who wondered why his Nissan always ran hot, and
                      everything checked out ok, then he changed the
                      water pump, and saw the erosion in the block)   


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