If I don't get a definitive answer on why my clutch slips then I am just
going to let it fester until I burn up the disk and then replace it and the
pressure plate at that point. It only takes me 45 minutes to do a clutch
but I am cash limited so I will live with this as long as it holds up. I
will, however, try your experiment the next time I think of it. As of
Friday, I am now commuting in my V8, 100+ miles, a day so it shouldn't be
hard to find the time to test your idea.
I'll let you know
James Nazarian
71 MGB Tourer
71 MGBGT V8
85 Dodge Ram
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Kernberger" <dkern@napanet.net>
To: "James Nazarian" <jhn3@uakron.edu>
Cc: <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 30, 2003 12:45 AM
Subject: Re: clutch slipping
> 6/29/03
>
> James,
>
> I recall the function of the counterweights on the Long style
> pressure plate release arms to be just the opposite of what you suggest
> here. Yet your symptoms seem to confirm your theory. I have always heard
> that the idea is to make it easy to depress the clutch pedal in ordinary
> driving, yet still get sufficient holding force for high speed/torque
> shifting, at the expense of a much greater pedal force requirement. I
seem
> to remember studying one of these plates and it looked to me like the
> position of the weights would cause them to work in the way I describe.
So
> your problem does not make sense to me. Be sure you let us know if you
> find the cause of your difficulties. Try revving the engine with the
pedal
> depressed and trans. in neutral. If the weights work as I think they
> should, you should feel the pedal try to push your foot up as you rev the
> engine. My old '61 F-85 Olds used to behave this way.
>
> I once had a stock Long style pressure plate explode on a high
> speed shift on a mildly souped 215 many years ago. I figured at the time
> that the high pedal force required had something to do with that blowup.
> For the record, I have zero experience with HTOB.
>
> It seems to me that, if the trans. rear leak just started, it could
> indeed be from wear on the rear bearing (just inside the rear seal) which
> would allow the yoke to move around too much and destroy the seal. On the
> other hand, Mr. Gridley's idea might be closer to the mark. Also much
> easier to try that cure before replacing seal and/or bearing. Seal is
> probably not a big problem to remove once yoke is removed from tailshaft.
> Replacing the bearing inside the housing would be a major job I suspec
>
> Regards,
> Dave Kernbergert.
>
> -------------------------------------------------------
>
> >I have a question concerning the stock clutch in my V8; it is a '63 olds
> >with T-10. I have a long style clutch that was unused before me but is
> >probably 10-15 years old, the pressure plate may be original. When I am
> >accelerating, I get clutch slippage above 3k rpm. I don't get any below
> >that point, however. I checked the htob and it has .040 preload where
one
> >shim is .075, the directions say that the bearing should have zero play
or
> >slight preload, so I think I am ok there.
> >
> >As I recall, the counterweights on the outside of the pressure plate will
> >make it easier to operate the clutch at speed. If this is true then it
> >would seem that they are releasing too much and allowing the clutch to
slip.
> >
> >Does anyone have any experience like this? Any suggestions on what to do
> >about it?
> >
> >James Nazarian
///
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