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Re: P/N clutch adjustment

To: "Anderson, Phil" <panderson@northpark.edu>
Subject: Re: P/N clutch adjustment
From: "Jack Hardy" <jnshardy@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 17:13:03 -0800
Cc: "MMM" <mg-mmm@autox.team.net>
References: <7852B6B06E5C99468A91699BBAEB6D6A1547FE@concorde.northpark.edu>
Reply-to: "Jack Hardy" <jnshardy@earthlink.net>
Sender: owner-mg-mmm@autox.team.net
Phil,

First; this is my only experience with a MMM car so I'm not an expert. I'll
gladly share my experiences with you or anyone else though. I think my
problem is similar, the throw out bearing not being parallel to the clutch.
As with yours, it worked okay at first but got so it would not disengage. I
found this to be due to the adjusting screws coming loose and backing out. I
would readjust to get the T.O. bearing parallel, 3/16 inch, by adjusting the
screws in pairs; do one, then do the opposite, 180 degrees away, one. Then
the other pair. This is described in the "MG Workshop Manual" by W.E.
Blower. The last time I did this I applied penetrating type threadlocker on
the threads after adjusting this seemed to work okay. Drove it for 10 miles
with no apparent change in operation. I have since received the BSF set
screws from Terry Sanders (1 1/2 in long) At this length and with my thicker
driven plate they hit the clutch pedal shaft that goes through the bell
housing. I cut them to 1 5/16 long and polished the cut off end with #320
grit paper. Also cut the diameter of the end down to allow the end to go in
the threaded hole of the lever before threading it in. Similar to the
originals. This makes it MUCH easier to get the threads started without
dropping the set screw into the bell housing! Adjustment is now much easier
with an Allen wrench, be sure to tie a string to all tools so as not to drop
them into the bell housing. I use a 3/16 dia rod to "feel" the clearance
between the T.O. bearing and it's actuator.

Hope this helps.

Regards,
Jack

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