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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto">Thanks, Tony;<div>Changing the figure 8 gas=
ket thickness does sound like the easiest and most precise solution. S=
everal others have made the same suggestion to use brass or copper shim stoc=
k. I am leery of creep in brass or copper. What is the experience you all ha=
ve had? Does the creep take a set after a while or do you need to continuall=
y retorque the head? Is there a similar issue with solid copper head g=
askets?</div><div>The responses of everyone are much appreciated. Brendon an=
d Sean Alexander have offered some steel shim gaskets if he has the correct t=
hickness (.010=E2=80=9D). Just hoping I don=E2=80=99t need to reduce p=
iston compression height as well=E2=80=A6.</div><div>Regards,</div><div>Phil=
<br><br><div dir=3D"ltr">Sent from my iPhone</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br><bloc=
kquote type=3D"cite">On May 14, 2023, at 7:16 PM, Tony Drews via Fot <fot=
@autox.team.net> wrote:<br><br></blockquote></div><blockquote type=3D"cit=
e"><div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=BF
=20
<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3DUTF-8"=
>
=20
=20
<p>You can also make some custom thickness replacements for the
figure 8 gaskets to tune the protrusion. You can get brass shim
stock from local hardware store or McMaster Carr and cut out with
scissors / snips. I do separate O shapes, the siamesed cylinders=
don't really need the gasket combined into a fig 8 one.</p>
<p>Decking the block on the wet liner engine makes this more
fiddly. You'll want to verify piston height at TDC too.</p>
<p>Regards, Tony Drews<br>
</p>
<div class=3D"moz-cite-prefix">On 5/14/2023 2:07 PM, Steve Yott via
Fot wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite" cite=3D"mid:20230514201811.9280BA0C8B@autox.te=
am.net">
<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3DUTF-=
8">
<div dir=3D"auto">You can machine the cylinder seat the required
amount. I have a set of mandrels I made and do this frequently=
on the lathe.</div>
<div dir=3D"auto"><br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto">Steve Yott</div>
<div dir=3D"auto"><br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto"><br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto"><br>
</div>
<div id=3D"composer_signature" dir=3D"auto">
<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html;
charset=3DUTF-8">
<div style=3D"font-size:85%;color:#575757" dir=3D"auto">Steve Yott</=
div>
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto"><br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto" style=3D"font-size:100%;color:#000000" align=3D"left=
">
<div>-------- Original message --------</div>
<div>From: Philip Gott via Fot <a class=3D"moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" hr=
ef=3D"mailto:fot@autox.team.net";><fot@autox.team.net></a> </div>
<div>Date: 5/14/23 1:02 PM (GMT-06:00) </div>
<div>To: Friends Of Triumph <a class=3D"moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href=3D=
"mailto:fot@autox.team.net";><fot@autox.team.net></a> </div>
<div>Subject: [Fot] TR sleeve protrusion .011 </div>
<div><br>
</div>
</div>
Has anyone had experience with the cylinder sleeves protruding
.011=E2=80=9D? The head has been staked per Kas=E2=80=99s book. <br>
I am trying to build an engine quickly (avoiding machine shop
delays) and have a block with billet crank and Chris Marx seal
installed. It has been decked already. Also line bored and cam
bearings and cam installed and timed. I want to know if I can
assemble this with confidence or if I am asking for trouble? I
don=E2=80=99t anticipate problems with oil or water sealing as I will u=
se
Hylomar on a .020=E2=80=9D steel head gasket with the raised corrugati=
ng
around the oil and water galleys.<br>
The crank broke and a cylinder sleeve cracked in =E2=80=9Cold reliable=
=E2=80=9D
during a test day.<br>
Please advise.<br>
Thanks and regards,<br>
Phil Gott<br>
<br>
Sent from my iPhone<br>
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