Rich,
Things have gotten better for Brit cars. Silicone no longer turns the rubber
to mush. Now about the rest of the car . . . :)
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Wright" <duntov1@attbi.com>
To: "Daniel Neuman" <dneuman@quark.sfsu.edu>;
<datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 3:31 PM
Subject: Re: OT- I ALMOST DIED TONIGHT!!!!!
> Dan,
> Glad you are OK also!
> Mastercylinders can leak around the pressure seal , and not leak past the
> seal that keeps the fluid in the master bore.
> By the way, that is one of the easiest masters to rebuild I have ever
seen.
> The tranny noise was the park pawl. The trans may be ok, but I would at
> least change the oil (metal shavings from the pawl) and filter and test
the
> park.
> Try synthetic oil in the diff- it swells the seals about 2%.
>
> American car brakefluid turns natural rubber British seals into bubble
gum.
> Synthetic brake fluid does the same thing!!! Castrol brake fluid ONLY!!!
>
> I drove an MGC from Houston to Austin one time (in my yopunger-dumber
days),
> with no brake or clutch hydraulics!!! I'll never forget that trip.
> The ignition switch was my only brakes!
> Richard
> Dallas
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Daniel Neuman" <dneuman@quark.sfsu.edu>
> To: <twalter@austin.rr.com>
> Cc: <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 12:44 PM
> Subject: Re: OT- I ALMOST DIED TONIGHT!!!!!
>
>
> > I really don't understand what went wrong. If the seals were bad
wouldn't
> i
> > of lost brake fluid? When we got the car the brakes were great reagular
> > feeling power brakes where you barely have to touch the pedal to get the
> > car to slam to a halt. After driving for about 4 hours the pedal
started
> to
> > feel less stiff and it took more effort and pedal travel to stop the
car.
> Then
> > all of a sudden the pedal goes all the way to the floor with no brake
> action...
> > could this of been the heating up of the fluid. When the pedal first
> started
> > to get soft I pulled over and check the resevoir and there was no loss
of
> > fluid and no fluid leaking from anywhere that I could see so I shrugged
it
> > off and kept driving....
> > Its hard to think to do the correct thing in a car that you are totally
> > unfamilar with. I tried putting the car into 1st but because of a
linkage
> issue
> > it will only go into 2nd and that was not slowing the car enough. Then
I
> reached
> > for the parking brake but I went for where the brake is in a roadster
and
> the
> > jags parking brake is under the dash like in an american car and well I
am
> sure
> > I could of reacted better....
> > The conversion was done about ten years ago by a company called
> > rebello performance I believe. THe conversion appears to of been done
> well with
> > solid moter mounts and no bashed in oil pan.
> > I think I am going to need a new transmission...after putting it in 2nd
> > and having it not slow the car I paniked and put it in park...made a
> horrible
> > grinding noise but it sure slowed the car down some....
> >
> > Daniel
> >
> > > Dan,
> > >
> > > Glad you and Irene are OK!!!
> > >
> > > One issue with engine conversions is how close the
> > > exhaust manifold & pipes are to any brake lines.
> > > It is not uncommon to build up a lot of heat near
> > > brake components. Problem becomes apparent after
> > > a very long drive. ;-(
> > >
> > > So if everything "seems normal" today, I'd still
> > > flush the brake fluid with Castrol GT/LMA (fine for
> > > Jags) to remove any moisture. Then start looking
> > > for any places that brake lines run within 4" of
> > > the exhaust components. You can buy heat shield
> > > material for brake lines at the speed shops.
> > >
> > > I seem to recall some of the brake line issues
> > > being addressed in a conversion book titled
> > > "Jags that run" JTR is still around, and at:
> > > http://www.jagsthatrun.com/ Been ages since
> > > I flipped through one of their excellent manuals.
> > >
> > > Seems odd that no one never noticed a problem
> > > before. Still with a marginal brake system (old
> > > brake fluid) and the long drive heating up the
> > > brake fluid to the point of no response...
> > >
> > > When was the conversion done?
> > >
> > > When I have lost brakes* in the roadster,
> > > I have left the car in gear and TURNED OFF
> > > the engine to help stop it.
> > >
> > > I have been practicing my "engine off,
> > > leave clutch in" for the Land Cruiser. Takes
> > > practice, but on a steep descent it is easy
> > > to stall out. No engine: No power steering, nor
> > > power brakes. My first reaction was to slam on the
> > > brakes and push in the clutch. Hmm, no power
> > > brakes... and I started SLIDING down the loose
> > > dirt hill. Had to work to keep the front
> > > pointing straight (very heavy steering without
> > > the power). Too close for comfort! Since then
> > > I have learned to keep my foot OFF the clutch,
> > > and how to restart the engine while in gear
> > > (hard on the starter, better than rolling).
> > >
> > > Tom Walter
> >
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