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41. Re: [Shop-talk] Freon Leak detectors (score: 1): Author: Pat Horne <pat@hornesystemstx.com>; Date: Thu, 08 Jan 2009 09:40:00 -0600; Have you tried cleaning the condenser coils? I have a Sub Zero also and that has been the main reason for poor cooling. I also once had the problem of the defrost timer not working, which caused the; /html/shop-talk/2009-01/msg00033.html (10,673 bytes)
42. Re: [Shop-talk] Sub Zero (Was- Freon Leak detectors) (score: 1): Author: Pat Horne <pat@hornesystemstx.com>; Date: Thu, 08 Jan 2009 10:31:48 -0600; On the bottom of the ice maker mold there is a thermal switch. If it is not working correctly it can cause the system to dump ice early or late. The problem I had with my ice maker is that the Teflon; /html/shop-talk/2009-01/msg00036.html (11,466 bytes)
43. Re: [Shop-talk] Sub Zero (Was- Freon Leak detectors) (score: 1): Author: Pat Horne <pat@hornesystemstx.com>; Date: Thu, 08 Jan 2009 10:45:37 -0600; My Sub Zero is about 15 years old. It is a 532. We've owned it for about 11 years and have always had a problem in humid weather that ice will form on the top of the freezer on the sloped part of the; /html/shop-talk/2009-01/msg00039.html (9,944 bytes)
44. Re: [Shop-talk] Auto gas line repair (score: 1): Author: Pat Horne <pat@hornesystemstx.com>; Date: Fri, 09 Jan 2009 20:19:18 -0600; I'm with Randall, with one addition. Use a flaring tool and put a small flare on the end of the line so the hose won't slide off. If you have a double flare tool, all the better, just put the bulge i; /html/shop-talk/2009-01/msg00065.html (9,460 bytes)
45. Re: [Shop-talk] RotoZip router / saws (score: 1): Author: Pat Horne <pat@hornesystemstx.com>; Date: Fri, 09 Jan 2009 20:23:04 -0600; What kind of drywall cutting are you needing to do? I use a Rotozip to cut out electrical outlets, etc. in drywall, but it makes too much dust and takes too long for most cutting. I use either a kni; /html/shop-talk/2009-01/msg00066.html (9,001 bytes)
46. Re: [Shop-talk] High-temp electrical insulation needed (score: 1): Author: Pat Horne <pat@hornesystemstx.com>; Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2009 11:07:46 -0600; If there is a small appliance repair shop nearby they may have some fiberglass tubing that is used in toaster ovens, etc. BTW, what is FLAPS, I've never heard of it? Peace, Pat Thusly spake Randall,; /html/shop-talk/2009-01/msg00073.html (9,711 bytes)
47. Re: [Shop-talk] High-temp electrical insulation needed (score: 1): Author: Pat Horne <pat@hornesystemstx.com>; Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2009 15:10:54 -0600; Thanks to all who responded. I've been on auto groups for several decades (back when all we had were newsgroups) and never heard that one! Peace, Pat Thusly spake Richard Beels, On 1/10/2009 2:22 PM:; /html/shop-talk/2009-01/msg00079.html (9,157 bytes)
48. Re: [Shop-talk] RotoZip router / saws (score: 1): Author: Pat Horne <pat@hornesystemstx.com>; Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2009 09:45:22 -0600; You take it easy and pay attention! Here is my method of cutting in boxes: First, make sure the wires are pushed as far back into the box as possible. If there are any screws for hanging light fixtur; /html/shop-talk/2009-01/msg00084.html (11,550 bytes)
49. Re: [Shop-talk] RotoZip router / saws (score: 1): Author: Pat Horne <pat@hornesystemstx.com>; Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2009 14:47:14 -0600; That makes things a lot harder if you want to route the boxes in place. Personally, I'd pull the outlets and switches, it would take less effort and be faster than manhandling the drywall. However,; /html/shop-talk/2009-01/msg00096.html (11,257 bytes)
50. Re: [Shop-talk] marble threshold question (score: 1): Author: Pat Horne <pat@hornesystemstx.com>; Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2009 22:10:16 -0600; Depends on who gets there first! Actually, since you are working with stone it is easiest to put the threshold down first, set the door on top of that and cut the door casing to sit on top of the thr; /html/shop-talk/2009-01/msg00105.html (9,220 bytes)
51. Re: [Shop-talk] RotoZip router / saws (score: 1): Author: Pat Horne <pat@hornesystemstx.com>; Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2009 11:38:16 -0600; Actually that spec is from the SURFACE of the WALL, which is at least 1/2" out from the face of the studs., which actually gives you 1.5" to work with. It isn't strictly enforced around here, as long; /html/shop-talk/2009-01/msg00108.html (10,370 bytes)
52. Re: [Shop-talk] 3d drawing package needed (score: 1): Author: Pat Horne <pat@hornesystemstx.com>; Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2009 19:49:43 -0600; I haven't tried them in several years, but I couldn't find a combination of machines that they had that would produce the parts I needed. It was really strange, you could drill and route, but not pun; /html/shop-talk/2009-01/msg00124.html (10,487 bytes)
53. Re: [Shop-talk] storing brake components? (score: 1): Author: Pat Horne <pat@hornesystemstx.com>; Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2009 09:43:12 -0600; Because you are supposed to replace it every couple/few years, which most people don't. If brake fluid is replaced before it absorbs as much water as it can hold, you will have a lot less components; /html/shop-talk/2009-01/msg00126.html (9,870 bytes)
54. Re: [Shop-talk] Epoxy recommendations? (score: 1): Author: Pat Horne <pat@hornesystemstx.com>; Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2009 12:13:42 -0600; Is there room to put something like a hose clamp around the area where the splines are missing? If so, cut a couple slots in the outside part, then find a clamp that fits the O.D. of the plastic par; /html/shop-talk/2009-01/msg00200.html (11,556 bytes)
55. Re: [Shop-talk] Water softeners - wrong link the first time! (score: 1): Author: Pat Horne <pat@hornesystemstx.com>; Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 07:53:21 -0600; Before I tried an alternate to the salt-based softeners I would do a lot of research. There are many "new" methods of softening water on the market that seem like snake oil, some (most?) soften water; /html/shop-talk/2009-02/msg00043.html (10,528 bytes)
56. Re: [Shop-talk] Water softeners - wrong link the first time! (score: 1): Author: Pat Horne <pat@hornesystemstx.com>; Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 09:56:43 -0600; I've known folks who have sold the magnetic water softener systems, and they swear by them. Testing does not show that there is any change in the water, but they claim that it is on the molecular le; /html/shop-talk/2009-02/msg00048.html (9,403 bytes)
57. Re: [Shop-talk] Dimmable CFLs at Home Depot (score: 1): Author: Pat Horne <pat@hornesystemstx.com>; Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2009 13:43:07 -0600; Just be sure that the ballasts are marked "NO PCBs" These can be thrown away, the ballasts that don't say that have to go to hazardous waste collection. Even though ballasts for the last decade or so; /html/shop-talk/2009-02/msg00111.html (9,897 bytes)
58. Re: [Shop-talk] table saw safety (not) (score: 1): Author: Pat Horne <pat@hornesystemstx.com>; Date: Wed, 04 Mar 2009 18:55:49 -0600; I don't think I saw even ONE proper technique in that video! NEVER use a fence and square at the same time on a saw (although I watched Bob Villa do it on a show several years ago). Always adjust the; /html/shop-talk/2009-03/msg00006.html (9,063 bytes)
59. Re: [Shop-talk] table saw safety (not) (score: 1): Author: Pat Horne <pat@hornesystemstx.com>; Date: Thu, 05 Mar 2009 07:03:18 -0600; Other than the obvious stuff with the way he starts the motor: Never use a fence and miter square at the same time. It is too easy to bind the wood and cause kick back. If you use the fence to set yo; /html/shop-talk/2009-03/msg00010.html (9,232 bytes)
60. Re: [Shop-talk] table saw safety (not) (score: 1): Author: Pat Horne <pat@hornesystemstx.com>; Date: Thu, 05 Mar 2009 20:26:36 -0600; Congrats on keeping your saw in good shape! That's the first step in being safe. While I require that all safety equipment be in place on power tools on Habitat for Humanity job sites that I lead, I; /html/shop-talk/2009-03/msg00012.html (8,975 bytes)

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