Mark,
That makes things a lot harder if you want to route the boxes in place.
Personally, I'd pull the outlets and switches, it would take less effort
and be faster than manhandling the drywall.
However, there is another fixture I've seen, but not used that might
help you out. It is a metal sheet metal piece that slips into the box to
be routed. It has points on the sheet metal that will stick into the
back of the drywall when you put it into place and tap it. When you pull
the drywall off, the fixture should still be attached to the back of the
drywall, or at least be able to see where it was. You then route around
the outside of the sheet metal and the hole is done. You may be able to
find a fixture of this type that will clear the outlets and switches.
You may be able to make something like this yourself. I've also seen a
fixture that had a stamp pat sort of frame that would leave an ink mark
on the back of the drywall in the location that needed cutting. Outlets
would be easier than switches because the drywall would be closer to the
boxes on outlets, but if you rough cut a hole for the toggle to stick
through, that would help.
The biggest problem with using it is that when the drywall is pressed
against it the drywall must be exactly where it needs to be when the
drywall is installed or the hole will be out of place.
Thusly spake Mark Andy, On 1/11/2009 2:13 PM:
> Howdy,
>
> On Sun, 11 Jan 2009, Brian Kemp wrote:
>> Pat gave a great answer. The wires need to be tucked in and the
>> depth of the bit is just a bit more than the thickness of the
>> drywall. The pros do a box in about 10 seconds.
>
> I've always done it by measuring / marking the box and cutting it with
> a drywall saw...
>
> But now I've got one of those roto-zip deals (HF to the rescue. :-)
> and maybe I'll try this method next time.
>
> Any tips for how to do it when the outlets & such are already in the box?
>
> Mark
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Pat Horne 512.797.7501
Owner, Horne Systems pat@hornesystemstx.com
5026 FM 2001 Lockhart, TX 78644-4443
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