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Total 118 documents matching your query.

21. Re: [oletrucks] subframe id (score: 1)
Author: "Keith" <kvdurand@mail.esc4.com>
Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2000 22:21:41 -0800
67-69 units were rear steer. 70-81 were front steer 70-74 had some funny looking upper control arms, sorry, I can't really describe them. I have a 1980 Firebird clip. I had ordered 1978 Camaro bushin
/html/oletrucks/2000-03/msg00339.html (7,949 bytes)

22. Re: [oletrucks] Re: Was.. DA Sanders & Updates, now Primer/Rust forming... (score: 1)
Author: "Keith" <kvdurand@mail.esc4.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2000 20:51:52 -0800
An epoxy or urethane primer will keep away rust for years. some special specific this oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
/html/oletrucks/2000-03/msg00445.html (8,203 bytes)

23. Re: [oletrucks] Painting small parts (score: 1)
Author: "Keith" <kvdurand@mail.esc4.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Feb 2000 18:26:49 -0800
You can take them all to get cad plated for about 50 bucks. question nuts Then supposed clamp oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
/html/oletrucks/2000-02/msg00076.html (8,016 bytes)

24. Re: [oletrucks] Zinc plated body (score: 1)
Author: "Keith" <kvdurand@mail.esc4.com>
Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 17:31:10 -0800
For 50 bucks. I'd say have them do it. It will protect the metal in the impossible to reach places. If it's electroplated, it's probably not yellow, and I'm not sure if I'd want yellow fenderwells. B
/html/oletrucks/2000-02/msg00595.html (11,682 bytes)

25. Re: [oletrucks] dot 5 BRAKE fluid (score: 1)
Author: "Keith" <kvdurand@mail.esc4.com>
Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 21:16:16 -0800
Don't do it!!!! (If you want to stop). Here's the fun part: what to use. Castrol GTLMA won't readily absorb water and keeps lines in good shape. Not sure about boiling point. It readily destroys pain
/html/oletrucks/2000-02/msg00610.html (8,528 bytes)

26. Re: [oletrucks] 'Transplanting'...all that I found on this. (score: 1)
Author: "Keith" <kvdurand@mail.esc4.com>
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 18:04:59 -0800
For an interesting discussion on lizards, Harley panheads, & messages being sent to the wrong place, go to the archives at escribe.com and search for: "agnostic behavior and ritualized combat in the
/html/oletrucks/2000-02/msg00679.html (7,534 bytes)

27. Re: [oletrucks] Frame - Powder Coating vs. Epoxy Paint (score: 1)
Author: "Keith" <kvdurand@mail.esc4.com>
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 17:15:19 -0800
Either way will cost about the same. Expect paint materials to run about $250. Sandblasting is another $125, and you still have to provide labor. Powdercoating & sandblasting runs about $400. Not a b
/html/oletrucks/2000-02/msg00717.html (7,678 bytes)

28. Re: [oletrucks] Mig Welder For Patch Panels (score: 1)
Author: "Keith" <kvdurand@mail.esc4.com>
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 09:15:49 -0800
The problem with flanging is rust. If you do go this route, seal the back with urethane seam sealer. oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
/html/oletrucks/2000-02/msg00718.html (7,868 bytes)

29. [oletrucks] lowering the rear (score: 1)
Author: "Keith" <kvdurand@mail.esc4.com>
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 23:15:55 -0800
If i want to lower the rear of my truck ('56 3100) a few inches, which leaf is best to take out? It appears that the fourth is not riveted in like the others and has no clip. Is this a good one to ta
/html/oletrucks/2000-02/msg00823.html (6,731 bytes)

30. Re: [oletrucks] '48 Vs Y2K? (score: 1)
Author: "Keith" <kvdurand@mail.esc4.com>
Date: Sat, 1 Jan 2000 14:58:03 -0800
If the cam timing slipped a whole lot, you could tell by the position of the rockers. At TDC on no. 1, make sure both valves are closed. -- Original Message -- From: joe <chevy1@jps.net> To: <MKlepp4
/html/oletrucks/2000-01/msg00011.html (10,984 bytes)

31. Re: [oletrucks] 8 VOLT BATTERY (score: 1)
Author: "Keith" <kvdurand@mail.esc4.com>
Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2000 21:14:20 -0800
The same ones would probably work. If not, a 8 to 6 volt solid state reducer would be easy to build. -- Original Message -- From: Grant Galbraith <trks@javanet.com> To: joe <chevy1@jps.net> Cc: Don S
/html/oletrucks/2000-01/msg00043.html (9,592 bytes)

32. Re: [oletrucks] Advice Needed (score: 1)
Author: "Keith" <kvdurand@mail.esc4.com>
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 22:59:29 -0800
I decided removing the cab was the only way to go. The cables, hoses, etc. are not that big a pain. But, a full interior makes a cab MUCH heavier. I hoisted mine from the rafters in the garage, other
/html/oletrucks/2000-01/msg00066.html (9,103 bytes)

33. Re: [oletrucks] Leaf Spring Bushings (score: 1)
Author: "Keith" <kvdurand@mail.esc4.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 17:41:58 -0800
I took an old shackle pin (Whatever they are called, they are threaded on the TF models, dunno about AD) and threaded it in with a pipe wrench. I set a spacer behind it and cranked the bushing out. I
/html/oletrucks/2000-01/msg00225.html (7,711 bytes)

34. Re: [oletrucks] Big Blocks 454 - 502 (score: 1)
Author: "Keith" <kvdurand@mail.esc4.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 16:24:23 -0800
Used to be all good valves were called Stellite. Since Stellite is a trade name, is stainless the same stuff? -- Original Message -- From: <Passnb4U@aol.com> To: <peter@petervolwerk.demon.nl>; <oletr
/html/oletrucks/2000-01/msg00269.html (8,545 bytes)

35. [oletrucks] drivetrain setup (score: 1)
Author: "Keith" <kvdurand@mail.esc4.com>
Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2000 18:59:37 -0800
With over 500 list members, somebody has to have both a measuring tape and a 55-59 truck! Now that I have your attention, I STILL need to know an approximate distance from the rear axle to the frame.
/html/oletrucks/2000-01/msg00741.html (6,929 bytes)

36. [oletrucks] '76 Camaro clip job (score: 1)
Author: "Keith" <kvdurand@mail.esc4.com>
Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2000 16:26:24 -0800
I think the level should be taken at the rear, where the arms sticking out would be attached to the Camaro body. These end up getting cut off, but don't do that until it is in place. I have heard to
/html/oletrucks/2000-01/msg00828.html (7,981 bytes)

37. Re: [oletrucks] Points/hei/efi (cool discussion coming!) (score: 1)
Author: "Keith" <kvdurand@mail.esc4.com>
Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2000 22:56:15 -0800
The Ford EEC can easily be tuned with some sort of external adaptor. I hate to go Frod...but it is a nice piece. A custom PROM or specialized equipment is definitely needed. There seemed to be some d
/html/oletrucks/2000-01/msg00838.html (8,595 bytes)

38. [oletrucks] taking apart springs (score: 1)
Author: "Keith" <kvdurand@mail.esc4.com>
Date: Thu, 2 Dec 1999 17:47:11 -0800
How do I disassemble 55-59 springs? They appear to have some sort of rivet on the clamps. oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
/html/oletrucks/1999-12/msg00037.html (6,534 bytes)

39. Re: [oletrucks] Patch Panels for Advance Design (score: 1)
Author: "Keith" <kvdurand@mail.esc4.com>
Date: Thu, 9 Dec 1999 19:17:52 -0800
At $600, you may want to consider getting a rust free cab. They are alot less hassle; I wish I had bought a nice cab instead of spending hours repairing it. -- Original Message -- From: paul goldstei
/html/oletrucks/1999-12/msg00216.html (8,820 bytes)

40. Re: [oletrucks] Power Brakes (score: 1)
Author: "Keith" <kvdurand@mail.esc4.com>
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 15:16:39 -0800
If you don't want to spend $300 plus, check out the bracket kits. They usually use a junkyarded Mu*#%ang II booster and master cylinder. Most run about $90. Speaking of donor cars, I got a heck of a
/html/oletrucks/1999-12/msg00237.html (7,335 bytes)


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