Hello All, Okay I got the head off and its kinda ugly. It looks like the screw chewed up the valve/head interface and made some gouges in the piston top. Here's the url www.madmadscientist.com/galler
Doesn't really look that bad. A couple of new valves and seats, a little smoothing on the head and piston and it should be in pretty good shape. Check the inside of the piston crown for any bulging
Your kidding right? So far I have been underwhelmed with advice..must be the slow season.... Daniel Neuman Oakland CA I still think it's an ignition problem.
Hi Keith, You mean look at the underside of the piston with the gouges? Would that not entail removing the piston from the engine? Yikes more scary engine work..You think that a competent machine sho
Yes. I'm kidding. If you are going to sand on the piston you should remove it from the motor. You don't want all that aluminum powder going into the motor. I've had a Kawasaki and a roadster motor ru
Since the dings don't appear to be too close to the edge of the piston do you think he might be able to use a sanding drum on a Dremel and a heavy duty shop vac with a 1 1/4 hose to suck up the "dus
Let's try again with the trailer removed so it gets sent out. Yes, this should be a mostly at home job. Get some craft paper and tape off the top of the engine leaving the gouge exposed. Dremmil off
I wonder what is the best way to clean off the top of the pistons. The 'manual' says to carefully remove the carbon from the pistons. How do you do that safely while the pistons are in the engine? I
Is there a way to remove the piston with out removing the engine from the car and dropping the oil pan and pulling it out the bottom? I am really hoping to get this done with out having to do a full
I really hope this to be the case. I 'believe' that my engine is in pretty great shape actually. I think that I can handle the smoothing out of the piston top but I am scared to do any smoothing in
Just pull off the oil pan. Remove the rod bolts and then tap the piston and rod out the top. I think that you should have the damaged valves and seats replaced and then have a good valve job. You ca
Ha Eric!! Of course that moron who hadn't checked the bolt was me!!!! Yippee I ruined a really good engine!!!! I REALLY do not want to part out the U-20 but if I am really mistaken on the condition o
Ya I know that it won't be like a weekend affair. I think, lucky for us that Mike Spreadbury has already worked out the kinks in the SR20 swap. I keep on him about offering it as a kit but he is relu
Well, get to kicking your butt, ok? :) Here I was hoping it was a mechanic. Your leakdown reading are all very good, so that's why I say you probably can just get that valve repaired and get back on