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1. Trailer recommendations desired (score: 1): Author: "Paul G. Edelstein" <pgedelstein@capitaltriumphregister.com>; Date: Fri, 1 Jul 2005 18:02:11 -0400; Good afternoon, all. I am considering purchasing a trailer to transport my TR6 (or TR8, for that matter) to the TRF party and other events. I am thinking open, inexpensive, but with 2 axles, brakes (; /html/6pack/2005-07/msg00017.html (7,683 bytes)
2. Rear Hub Trailing Arm Mounting (score: 1): Author: "Paul G. Edelstein" <pgedelstein@capitaltriumphregister.com>; Date: Fri, 1 Jul 2005 18:03:02 -0400; Good afternoon, all. This morning, I started to remove my right rear hub to send out for rebuilding due to play in the bearing. I hope to finish the job in time for the TRF Party. The last time I had; /html/6pack/2005-07/msg00018.html (8,133 bytes)
3. re: %&?#@"! filler plug!! (score: 1): Author: "Paul G. Edelstein" <pgedelstein@CapitalTriumphRegister.com>; Date: Sat, 2 Jul 2005 19:25:28 -0400; Sears used to make star sockets for square nuts. My socket set came with three sizes -- one of my favoirite tools. But I understand they don;t make them anymore. Suggest you try a local tool place,; /html/6pack/2005-07/msg00033.html (8,678 bytes)
4. re: More emissions news (score: 1): Author: "Paul G. Edelstein" <pgedelstein@CapitalTriumphRegister.com>; Date: Sat, 2 Jul 2005 19:39:26 -0400; You have the timing marks backwards. The wide groove is TDC and the thinner one is 4 ATDC. The engine turns clockwise when viewed from the front. So, your timing may be advanced by 4 degrees. This s; /html/6pack/2005-07/msg00034.html (8,530 bytes)
5. Re: More emissions news (score: 1): Author: "Paul G. Edelstein" <pgedelstein@capitaltriumphregister.com>; Date: Sun, 3 Jul 2005 11:16:32 -0400; Sorry, Doug is correct. So much for zapping off a quick response! Sometimes geometry inverts itself inside my head. Cheers, Paul E. Phil, My experience is that larger dwell angles are usually the re; /html/6pack/2005-07/msg00045.html (8,008 bytes)
6. re: LBC car shows in DC area? (score: 1): Author: "Paul G. Edelstein" <pgedelstein@capitaltriumphregister.com>; Date: Tue, 5 Jul 2005 11:43:17 -0400; Unfortunately, you missed the best one -- the Capital Triumph Register's "Britain on the Green" held in late April near Mt. Vernon (yes, a plug!) You also missed the Richmond Triumph Register's show; /html/6pack/2005-07/msg00079.html (8,019 bytes)
7. re: Side Window Adjustment (score: 1): Author: "Paul G. Edelstein" <pgedelstein@capitaltriumphregister.com>; Date: Wed, 18 May 2005 11:59:40 -0400; Fore/aft adjustment for the window channels is achieved by inserting or removing "shims" (actually just washers) under the window channel mounts. The channels should be adjusted so that the glass sl; /html/6pack/2005-05/msg00235.html (7,799 bytes)
8. Re: Fuel Line (score: 1): Author: "Paul G. Edelstein" <pgedelstein@capitaltriumphregister.com>; Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2004 14:33:46 -0400; I know exactly what you are talking about. I've R&Rd my line several times (reusing the existing ferrule). The nut almost seats (<1 thread left) before a seal is formed. I've observed that the cente; /html/6pack/2004-06/msg00188.html (8,460 bytes)
9. Continuing Rear Camber Problem (longish) (score: 1): Author: "Paul G. Edelstein" <pgedelstein@capitaltriumphregister.com>; Date: Mon, 21 Jun 2004 11:55:50 -0400; Last summer and fall, as one of the last steps in my restoration, I did considerable work on the rear end of my car to correct a long standing negative camber problem. For starters, both sides were; /html/6pack/2004-06/msg00218.html (8,354 bytes)
10. RE: Valve Cover Issue: Please take it off-list (score: 1): Author: "Paul G. Edelstein" <pgedelstein@capitaltriumphregister.com>; Date: Wed, 23 Jun 2004 11:53:54 -0400; I humbly disagree with the assertion that this issue should not be on the list. I have never done business with Jim (nor will I), yet I find the discussion useful and informative. To me, a principal; /html/6pack/2004-06/msg00258.html (9,314 bytes)
11. Re: POR-15 and Eastwood Rust encapsulator products -- Chassis (score: 1): Author: "Paul G. Edelstein" <pgedelstein@capitaltriumphregister.com>; Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 12:49:32 -0500; I've done exactly what you want to do. For example, on the frame cross-tube in the engine compartment, I used POR 15 basically as a primer, then applied Chassis Black over it. The piece was off the; /html/6pack/2004-03/msg00205.html (9,560 bytes)
12. RE: Why oil on the trunions? (score: 1): Author: "Paul G. Edelstein" <pgedelstein@capitaltriumphregister.com>; Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004 11:48:56 -0500; Gary and Joe, Au contraire. It is my understanding that oil is recommended because any grease is simply too thick to reliabily work its way up the treads when injected. The grease also tends to wear; /html/6pack/2004-01/msg00263.html (8,544 bytes)
13. Re: Valve Cover Acorn Nuts (score: 1): Author: "Paul G. Edelstein" <pgedelstein@capitaltriumphregister.com>; Date: Thu, 4 Dec 2003 12:02:40 -0500; Try MSC Fasteners -- mscfasteners.com. I've bought a ton of stuff from them -- they have everything stainless for reasonable prices, including your nuts. NFI, of course. Prices are very reasonable.; /html/6pack/2003-12/msg00017.html (7,335 bytes)
14. re: DOT 3 vs DOT 5 (score: 1): Author: "Paul G. Edelstein" <pgedelstein@capitaltriumphregister.com>; Date: Fri, 5 Dec 2003 12:45:40 -0500; I did a fair amount of research on this topic before I elected to put DOT5 in my TR6 post-restoration. Here are my thoughts: Firstly, you mean DOT4 (e.g. Castrol LMA), not DOT3. DOT3 is universally; /html/6pack/2003-12/msg00020.html (9,838 bytes)
15. Re: DOT 3 vs DOT 5 (score: 1): Author: "Paul G. Edelstein" <pgedelstein@capitaltriumphregister.com>; Date: Fri, 5 Dec 2003 14:47:40 -0500; Thanks. Interestingly, some of the "lore" also speculates that because DOT5 doesn't absorb water, it "traps" it causing localized rusting/corrosion. This same lore suggests that DOT 4 is thus better; /html/6pack/2003-12/msg00023.html (9,139 bytes)
16. re: wobbly column (key light) (score: 1): Author: "Paul G. Edelstein" <pgedelstein@capitaltriumphregister.com>; Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2003 11:09:27 -0500; This light is called the "Key Light." It is shown on the 72-74 wiring diagram (Bentley p. 488, #65). My '71 has this component, too. BTW, my car has the key warning buzzer, also shown in the 72-74 d; /html/6pack/2003-12/msg00113.html (8,425 bytes)
17. Re: Rear Tow in, out? (score: 1): Author: "Paul G. Edelstein" <pgedelstein@capitaltriumphregister.com>; Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2003 10:20:22 -0500; Having just been through a DIY alignment (completed yesterday), I offer the The spec for the rear toe is the same as the front: 0" to 1/16" total toe IN. Some things to note: 1. You will note that th; /html/6pack/2003-11/msg00046.html (8,534 bytes)
18. Re: Exhaust valve spring "caps" (score: 1): Author: "Paul G. Edelstein" <pgedelstein@capitaltriumphregister.com>; Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2003 18:13:42 -0500; My clever solution to keep the valve from falling into the cylinder is crude, but easy and very effective. It works well on single spring valves, not sure about the double sping ones. Simply take a; /html/6pack/2003-11/msg00052.html (9,009 bytes)
19. re: Windshield gasket replacement (score: 1): Author: "Paul G. Edelstein" <pgedelstein@capitaltriumphregister.com>; Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2003 11:02:43 -0500; I used 3M strip caulk (3M PN 08578), which I believe is virtually identical to the OE stuff. You use two parallel rows of it. Sticks and seals like a motha. It is available from Eastwood and most 3M; /html/6pack/2003-11/msg00081.html (7,500 bytes)
20. re: Convertible Top Fit Question (score: 1): Author: "Paul G. Edelstein" <pgedelstein@capitaltriumphregister.com>; Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2003 15:44:40 -0500; Answer: Not C or B (this sounds like a frame, not a top, problem), maybe A, or maybe F -- bad design. I am assuming that your glass is not parallel to the metal frame. I have the same problem on my; /html/6pack/2003-11/msg00082.html (9,083 bytes)

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