Hi all,
>effectively goes lower in the tube than when it's at rest, and more oil
>doesn't make it work any better than just enough.
Yep but just make sure there is enough oil to initially cover the damper
when the throttle is closed, because if there isn't and with the piston
resting on the bridge - on acceleration the piston will rise and effectively
foam/splash the oil and induce a slight hesitation. You can see the oil
leave via the cap vent! Apparently you see the remains on the bonnet felt..
<G> Don't ask how I know. :)
Jim - I will have to try the method you outline, however it only takes a
minute to remove the dashpots and while I'm there I give the carbs a quick
squirt of carb cleaner to remove any buildup. I don't find I lose hardly any
oil so I don't have to go in there very often. Bill at SU Midel here in
Sydney advised me that the springs do SFA and never be concerned if one of
them is slightly shorter etc than the other one. Either way I'd prefer to
have oil in the dampers and springs fitted when racing for the exact reason
Brian mentions, you aren't *always* at full throttle, and I think you would
notice some hesitation without oil & springs.
BTW, SU Midel is now offering Solid State SU Fuel pumps that are *identical*
to the original points types, they're also selling kits to upgrade existing
points type SU Fuel pumps to solid state. Sounds cool, no interest yadda
yadda yadda - Web address is: http://www.sumidel.com/ Take a look on the
News page.
Cheers,
Neil.
--
Neil Cotty - Sydney, Australia
1970 MG B GT / 1961 MG A 1600 Mk1 / 1956 AH 100 BN2
GHD5UA200702G / YGHN2 100102-1399 / BN2L-232789
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