In a message dated 10/20/98 12:53:47 PM !!!First Boot!!!,
rolf@star.inst.bnl.gov writes:
<< Hi Dr John
I read the trunnion explanation and if I read it correctly then the logic to
swap them is incorrect. With the right trunnion on the right and you make a
right hand turn the uppright on the right side screws into the trunnion
lowering the right side of the chassis and raising the left side as it
unscrews ever so slightly. Am I missing something here?
PS do you have any dimmensions for the rear axel squash tubes?
>>
Rolf-
This seems right to me...With the trunnions helping to offset the roll
tendency of the car, you have an added advantage over "regular" ball joints.
>Personal Opinion Mode ON>
Squash tubes are never really a "perfect" setup. The ones from TVR have uneven
ends which must be dressed square, and they do not have any provision for
their "squashing." No matter how tight you try to torque those little
beauties, they will not "squash." Don't ask me why I know this... So, you will
have to form an inner bead in the tube to make it "squash" before you install
it. The tubes themselves are not really the answer, esp if you are doing any
"severe" driving (not that anybody would do that in a TVR <g>). Excessive side
loads will eventually compress the "squash" tube so that it becomes loose
inside and allows additional play in the assembly. What I have done is to make
the largest diameter tube that will fit inside the upright and be tight on the
axle, to slightly thinner sizes than the "squash" tubes that came out of the
car. Then use shims to get the exact preload on the bearings. Unfortunately
this will take a few re-shims as the new bearings wear in, but once done, they
should not need further adjustment until the bearing needs to be repacked.
This setup not only will not compress, but helps to support the axle somewhat
and stiffen it.
<Personal Opinion Mode Off>
Never one to "leave it alone"...
Nick in Nor Cal
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