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The face of the hub and the inside of the drum could also be rusted, a fair a=
mount of surface area. Maybe a few applications of heat with a propane torch=
help. Heat and cool, repeat.
If the oil seal has worn the surface, you should be able to see and feel it.=
> On Aug 30, 2021, at 5:01 PM, bill beecher <notakitcar@yahoo.com> wrote:
>=20
> =EF=BB=BFDave,
> Don=E2=80=99t know about speedy sleeves for the axel seals, someone will.=20=
>=20
> If the brake drum is turning, the only thing keeping it on is the friction=
fit around the hub and studs. Spraying with PB Blaster/Liquid Wrench or t=
he acetone-ATF mix is a good way to go. I use a 4lb soft-blow hammer so as=
not to chip the brake drum. If you can get to move a little then a couple o=
f tire irons may help you wiggle off the rest of the way. =20
>=20
> Never heard of the brake shoe fix you describe, couldn=E2=80=99t hurt. I h=
ave had shoes become soaked with brake fluid, sprayed liberally with brake c=
leaner and scuffed with sandpaper, repeat, worked a treat. =20
>=20
> Bill B
> TS30800L
>=20
> Last night I saw upon the stair,
> A little man who wasn't there,
> He wasn't there again today
> Oh, how I wish he'd go away.... Mearns
>=20
> On Aug 30, 2021, at 2:44 PM, David Gunn <ccgunn@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>=20
> =EF=BB=BF
> Hi - After about a 10 year hiatus due to health issues, I'm back on the li=
st. It is good to see that this list is still going strong, and was in awe t=
hat the Dot 3 v. Dot 5 controversy still exists. =20
>=20
> I have a 1954 TR2 longdoor, TS3388L. I rebuilt every system (brakes, elec=
trical, fuel, cooling) 10-15 years ago. I did not have to open up the engin=
e, transmission or rear end, as they seemed to be working just fine. It is c=
lose to original; although it does have a TR3 engine and disc brakes on the f=
ront (I didn't do it). Everything from the transmission back is original.
>=20
> When I parked it, I, unfortunately, did nothing. So, I know that I will n=
eed to redo and rebuild all of the various systems. I am hoping that I do n=
ot have to remove the gas tank again, as I parked it with a full tank of gas=
. At some point, I put Marvel Mystery Oil in the cylinders.
>=20
> I drove it many miles all over northern California. My last drive was up t=
o Lassen Park. It ran fine; although it developed a leak in one of the rear=
wheel seals. I replaced both seals, and then both leaked (par normal for m=
e). At that point, it was parked.
>=20
> Now, I am back to it. I am starting with the seals. Someone suggested th=
at driving it with the original (?) seals caused a scaring on the axle and t=
hat I needed to put a sleeve on the axle to ensure a good seal. Does that ma=
ke any sense? Is this something that I can do, or do I need to take the axl=
es in to a machine shop?
>=20
> The right rear brake drum came off with minimal effort. I have not been a=
ble to get the left brake drum off. It has the original 9" drums. I have l=
ightly tapped all the way around, to no avail. (BTW, I did remove the 2 set=
screws, and was able to back off the shoes, so it spins relatively freely.)=
I did knock a chip off the drum. I hope that doesn't affect the balance o=
f that wheel? I have liberally sprayed penetrating oil in every crevice I c=
ould find. I have not been back out to the shop since applying the penetrat=
ing oil, due to the poor AQI and heavy smoke from the wildfires in northern C=
alifornia. =20
>=20
> One more question: I have 2 sets of near new brake shoes, but they were s=
oaked with oil. Somewhere I heard that burying them in a tub of kitty litte=
r would draw out the oil. Is this correct? An old wives tale?
>=20
> So, any advice from the combined wisdom of this group is greatly appreciat=
ed.
>=20
> Thank you,
>=20
> David
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>=20
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archi=
ve
>=20
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakit=
car@yahoo.com
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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto"><div dir=3D"ltr">The face of the hub and th=
e inside of the drum could also be rusted, a fair amount of surface area. Ma=
ybe a few applications of heat with a propane torch help. Heat and cool, rep=
eat.</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">If the oil seal has wo=
rn the surface, you should be able to see and feel it.</div><div dir=3D"ltr"=
><br><blockquote type=3D"cite">On Aug 30, 2021, at 5:01 PM, bill beecher <=
;notakitcar@yahoo.com> wrote:<br><br></blockquote></div><blockquote type=3D=
"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=BF<meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D=
"text/html; charset=3Dutf-8">Dave,<div>Don=E2=80=99t know about speedy sleev=
es for the axel seals, someone will. </div><div><br></div><div>If the b=
rake drum is turning, the only thing keeping it on is the friction fit aroun=
d the hub and studs. Spraying with PB Blaster/Liquid Wrench or the ac=
etone-ATF mix is a good way to go. I use a 4lb soft-blow hammer so as=
not to chip the brake drum. If you can get to move a little then a co=
uple of tire irons may help you wiggle off the rest of the way. </div>=
<div><br></div><div>Never heard of the brake shoe fix you describe, couldn=E2=
=80=99t hurt. I have had shoes become soaked with brake fluid, sprayed=
liberally with brake cleaner and scuffed with sandpaper, repeat, worked a t=
reat. </div><div><br></div><div>Bill B</div><div>TS30800L</div><div><b=
r><div dir=3D"ltr"><span style=3D"background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"=
>Last night I saw upon the stair,<br>A little man who wasn't there,<br>He wa=
sn't there again today<br>Oh, how I wish he'd go away.... Mearns</span></div=
><div dir=3D"ltr"><br>On Aug 30, 2021, at 2:44 PM, David Gunn <ccgunn@sbc=
global.net> wrote:<br><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=BF<div class=3D"y=
ahoo-style-wrap" style=3D"font-family:Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans=
-serif;font-size:13px;"><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">Hi - After ab=
out a 10 year hiatus due to health issues, I'm back on the list. It is=
good to see that this list is still going strong, and was in awe that the D=
ot 3 v. Dot 5 controversy still exists. <img title=3D"Emoji" alt=3D"Em=
oji" class=3D"yahoo-emoji-wrapper" src=3D"https://s.yimg.com/nq/yemoji_asset=
s/latest/yemoji_assets/1f600.png" style=3D"padding: 0px 2px; vertical-align:=
middle;" data-inlineimagemanipulating=3D"true" width=3D"16" height=3D"16" d=
ata-unique-identifier=3D""></div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false"><br>=
</div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">I have a 1954 TR2 longdoor, TS3=
388L. I rebuilt every system (brakes, electrical, fuel, cooling) 10-15=
years ago. I did not have to open up the engine, transmission or rear=
end, as they seemed to be working just fine. It is close to original;=
although it does have a TR3 engine and disc brakes on the front (I didn't d=
o it). Everything from the transmission back is original.</div><div di=
r=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"fa=
lse">When I parked it, I, unfortunately, did nothing. So, I know that I=
will need to redo and rebuild all of the various systems. I am hoping=
that I do not have to remove the gas tank again, as I parked it with a full=
tank of gas. At some point, I put Marvel Mystery Oil in the cylinders=
.</div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr" dat=
a-setdir=3D"false">I drove it many miles all over northern California. =
My last drive was up to Lassen Park. It ran fine; although it develop=
ed a leak in one of the rear wheel seals. I replaced both seals, and t=
hen both leaked (par normal for me). At that point, it was parked.</di=
v><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-set=
dir=3D"false">Now, I am back to it. I am starting with the seals. =
; Someone suggested that driving it with the original (?) seals caused a sca=
ring on the axle and that I needed to put a sleeve on the axle to ensure a g=
ood seal. Does that make any sense? Is this something that I can do, o=
r do I need to take the axles in to a machine shop?<br></div><div dir=3D"ltr=
" data-setdir=3D"false"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">The=
right rear brake drum came off with minimal effort. I have not been a=
ble to get the left brake drum off. It has the original 9" drums. =
; I have lightly tapped all the way around, to no avail. (BTW, I did r=
emove the 2 set screws, and was able to back off the shoes, so it spins rela=
tively freely.) I did knock a chip off the drum. I hope that doe=
sn't affect the balance of that wheel? I have liberally sprayed penetr=
ating oil in every crevice I could find. I have not been back out to t=
he shop since applying the penetrating oil, due to the poor AQI and heavy sm=
oke from the wildfires in northern California. <br></div><div dir=3D"l=
tr" data-setdir=3D"false"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">O=
ne more question: I have 2 sets of near new brake shoes, but they were=
soaked with oil. Somewhere I heard that burying them in a tub of kitt=
y litter would draw out the oil. Is this correct? An old wives t=
ale?<br></div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false"><br></div><div dir=3D"l=
tr" data-setdir=3D"false">So, any advice from the combined wisdom of this gr=
oup is greatly appreciated.</div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false"><br>=
</div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">Thank you,</div><div dir=3D"ltr=
" data-setdir=3D"false"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">Dav=
id<br></div></div><span>** triumphs@autox.team.net **</span><br><span></span=
><br><span>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html</span><br><span>Archive: h=
ttp://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive</spa=
n><br><span></span><br><span>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailm=
an/options/triumphs/notakitcar@yahoo.com</span><br></div></div></div></block=
quote></body></html>=
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** triumphs@autox.team.net **
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
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