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I stopped that leak by using two of the "acorns" instead of one, creating th=
e longer one needed to push up against the sealing surface.
Bud
Sent from my Commodore 64
> On Aug 11, 2020, at 5:01 AM, EDWARD WOODS <fogbro1@comcast.net> wrote:
>=20
> And isn't it the brass "acorn" that seals the connection at the pump, not t=
he threads? ISTR that the original "acorn" is a bit longer than the replacem=
ents available which limits compression and can cause a leak. At one time th=
ere was someone making a longer "acorn" to solve this problem.=20
>=20
> Ed Woods
>> On 08/10/2020 11:57 PM Greg Lemon <grglmn@gmail.com> wrote:
>>=20
>>=20
>> Just a couple random thoughts here. One, I could not figure out from you=
r message where exactly you ended up putting the electric pump. My understa=
nding is most electric pumps like to push better than the like to pull, MG a=
nd Healey pumps are mounted close to the tank and low in back, that would be=
a good place for the new TR electric pump. You seem somewhat concerned abo=
ut originality. =20
>>=20
>> Second, mechanical pump rebuild kits are readily available and not too ha=
rd to fit. There are lots of things I remember about rebuilding my TR ten y=
ears ago, rebuilding the pump is not one of them, so it must have been fairl=
y easy to do and worked (and has been working fine for ten years).
>>=20
>> Good Luck
>>=20
>> Greg Lemon
>> TR250=20
>>=20
>>=20
>>=20
>> On Mon, Aug 10, 2020, 10:43 PM staffel < staffel@comcast.net> wrote:=20
>>=20
>> Several years ago on an evening club drive in the Catoctin Mts of Maryla=
nd my TR4 developed running/ hesitation issues. Then it got dark & started t=
o rain. Could not drive the car steady over 45mph. Typical fuel flow cloggin=
g issue symptoms. Fortunately we made it into Fredericksburg and a Motel.
>>=20
>> Next morning, still raining, the issue was apparent: in the bottom of th=
e Glass fuel bowl- a pile of 'rust dust'. Cleaned the bowl & nursed the car=
home 30 miles, but it kept dying. Fortunately a Jag club friend came by and=
got his trailer & towed me home.
>>=20
>> Further examination determined sediment also in the CD carbs fuel bowls. S=
o much for the fuel pump 'screen' being 'effective'.
>>=20
>> Also examination of the fuel pump (original) revealed a weak diaphragm, s=
o while working on the carbs, ordered a new pump from TRF.=20
>>=20
>> A few months later got everything back together. The engine started righ=
t up & ran fine. But no matter how I tried to seal the threads on fuel feed o=
f the original curved pipe inlet 'nut' to the new pump ( pipe dope, teflon t=
ape, rtv) the leak wouldn't stop.=20
>>=20
>> Magnifying glass exam of the original Triumph Male pipe 'nut' and the fe=
male threaded bore of the new TRF pump revealed a slight thread mismatch - C=
hinese machining. It was not Metric either.=20
>>=20
>> So after talking with TRF, I decided to forget the mechanical pump and in=
stall an electric pump, ala Jaguar V12s & Jensen Healey / GTs (Lotus 907).
>>=20
>> Well, I installed a couple of different new electric pumps adjacent to=
the mechanical pump.
>>=20
>> They would never 'self prime'.=20
>>=20
>> Now, returning to the project. I removed the mechanical pump, & DRAINED t=
he tank of the old fuel. It seems that the gravity feed when the tank is les=
s than 1/2 full requires the elec pump to be very low ( like the original in=
put height of the original pump, to receive fuel.=20
>>=20
>> So I am redetailing the frame (cleaning & new paint) and securing the new=
fuel line, inline glass Filter & elec pump right on the frame. This allows=
the steel feed line from the tank ( after Dremel Tool cutting) to match the=
new location of the electric pump.
>>=20
>> Next will be modifying a new copper fuel line ( semblance of originality)=
to meet the elec pump feed right behind & adjacent to the Water pump. The o=
riginal copper pipe mated to the back of the mechanical pump , ran up and fo=
rward along the engine at the cylinder head level to the front of the engine=
& then across to the carburetor feeds.
>>=20
>> Finally hope this resolves the fuel delivery issue.
>>=20
>> I wanted to share a warning about the TRF pump supplier manufacturing gl=
itch. So others can not waste years getting their TRs back to Roadworthy sta=
tus.
>>=20
>> Obviously not going to drive a car with weeping fuel near a hot engine. A=
t least on the TR4 & 6s, ( unlike Jaguar 6s ( have 2) or V12s ( have 3), Jen=
sen GTs ( have 3) ; the exhaust Manifolds are on the opposite side of the en=
gine.=20
>>=20
>> Sherman D Taffel=20
>> Columbia MD and Goldvein VA=20
>> 65 TR4 CT 50054L
>> ( per VTR the last known TR4 produced & shipped to USA)
>>=20
>>=20
>> Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S10, an AT&T 5G Evolution capable smartphone
>>=20
>>=20
>>=20
>> Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S10, an AT&T 5G Evolution capable smartphone
>>=20
>> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **=20
>>=20
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html=20
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/arch=
ive=20
>>=20
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/grglmn=
@gmail.com=20
>> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **=20
>>=20
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html=20
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archi=
ve=20
>>=20
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fogbro=
1@comcast.net
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>=20
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archi=
ve
>=20
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilev=
i@comcast.net
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
<html><head><meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html;
charset=utf-8"></head><body dir="auto"><div>I stopped that leak by using two of
the "acorns" instead of one, creating the longer one needed to push up against
the sealing surface.</div><div id="AppleMailSignature"><br></div><div
id="AppleMailSignature">Bud<br><br>Sent from my Commodore 64</div><div><br>On
Aug 11, 2020, at 5:01 AM, EDWARD WOODS <<a
href="mailto:fogbro1@comcast.net";>fogbro1@comcast.net</a>>
wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type="cite"><div>
<meta charset="UTF-8">
<div style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica, arial, sans-serif;
color: #333333;">
And isn't it the brass "acorn" that seals the connection at the pump, not
the threads? ISTR that the original "acorn" is a bit longer than the
replacements available which limits compression and can cause a leak. At one
time there was someone making a longer "acorn" to solve this problem.
</div>
<div style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica, arial, sans-serif;
color: #333333;">
<br>
</div>
<div style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica, arial, sans-serif;
color: #333333;">
Ed Woods
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div>
On 08/10/2020 11:57 PM Greg Lemon <<a
href="mailto:grglmn@gmail.com";>grglmn@gmail.com</a>> wrote:
</div>
<div>
<br>
</div>
<div>
<br>
</div>
<div dir="auto">
Just a couple random thoughts here. One, I could not figure out from
your message where exactly you ended up putting the electric pump. My
understanding is most electric pumps like to push better than the like to pull,
MG and Healey pumps are mounted close to the tank and low in back, that would
be a good place for the new TR electric pump. You seem somewhat concerned
about originality.
<div dir="auto">
<br>
</div>
<div dir="auto">
Second, mechanical pump rebuild kits are readily available and not too
hard to fit. There are lots of things I remember about rebuilding my TR
ten years ago, rebuilding the pump is not one of them, so it must have been
fairly easy to do and worked (and has been working fine for ten years).
</div>
<div dir="auto">
<br>
</div>
<div dir="auto">
Good Luck
</div>
<div dir="auto">
<br>
</div>
<div dir="auto">
Greg Lemon
</div>
<div dir="auto">
TR250
<br>
<div dir="auto">
<br>
</div>
<div dir="auto">
<br>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div class="gmail_attr" dir="ltr">
On Mon, Aug 10, 2020, 10:43 PM staffel <
<a href="mailto:staffel@comcast.net";>staffel@comcast.net</a>> wrote:
<br>
</div>
<blockquote>
<div dir="auto">
<div dir="auto">
<br>
</div>
<div dir="auto">
<div dir="auto">
<span style="font-family: sans-serif;">Several years ago on an
evening club drive in the Catoctin Mts of Maryland my TR4 developed
running/ hesitation issues. Then it got dark & started to rain. Could not
drive the car steady over 45mph. Typical fuel flow clogging issue symptoms.
Fortunately we made it into Fredericksburg and a Motel.</span>
</div>
<div dir="auto">
<span style="font-family: sans-serif;"><br></span>
</div>
<div dir="auto">
<span style="font-family: sans-serif;">Next morning, still
raining, the issue was apparent: in the bottom of the Glass fuel bowl- a
pile of 'rust dust'. Cleaned the bowl & nursed the car home 30 miles,
but it kept dying. Fortunately a Jag club friend came by and got his trailer
& towed me home.</span>
</div>
<div dir="auto">
<span style="font-family: sans-serif;"><br></span>
</div>
<div dir="auto">
<span style="font-family: sans-serif;">Further examination determined
sediment also in the CD carbs fuel bowls. So much for the fuel pump 'screen'
being 'effective'.</span>
</div>
<div dir="auto">
<span style="font-family: sans-serif;"><br></span>
</div>
<div dir="auto">
<span style="font-family: sans-serif;">Also examination of the fuel
pump (original) revealed a weak diaphragm, so while working on the carbs,
ordered a new pump from TRF. </span>
</div>
<div dir="auto">
<span style="font-family: sans-serif;"><br></span>
</div>
<div dir="auto">
<span style="font-family: sans-serif;">A few months later got
everything back together. The engine started right up & ran fine. But
no matter how I tried to seal the threads on fuel feed of the original
curved pipe inlet 'nut' to the new pump ( pipe dope, teflon tape, rtv) the leak
wouldn't stop. </span>
</div>
<div dir="auto">
<span style="font-family: sans-serif;"><br></span>
</div>
<div dir="auto">
<span style="font-family: sans-serif;">Magnifying glass exam of the
original Triumph Male pipe 'nut' and the female threaded bore of the new
TRF pump revealed a slight thread mismatch - Chinese machining. It was not
Metric either. </span>
</div>
<div dir="auto">
<span style="font-family: sans-serif;"><br></span>
</div>
<div dir="auto">
<span style="font-family: sans-serif;">So after talking with TRF, I
decided to forget the mechanical pump and install an electric pump,
ala Jaguar V12s & Jensen Healey / GTs (Lotus 907).</span>
</div>
<div dir="auto">
<span style="font-family: sans-serif;"><br></span>
</div>
<div dir="auto">
<span style="font-family: sans-serif;">Well, I installed a couple
of different new electric pumps adjacent to the mechanical
pump.</span>
</div>
<div dir="auto">
<span style="font-family: sans-serif;"><br></span>
</div>
<div dir="auto">
<span style="font-family: sans-serif;">They would never 'self
prime'. </span>
</div>
<div dir="auto">
<span style="font-family: sans-serif;"><br></span>
</div>
<div dir="auto">
<span style="font-family: sans-serif;">Now, returning to the project. I
removed the mechanical pump, & DRAINED the tank of the old fuel. It seems
that the gravity feed when the tank is less than 1/2 full requires the elec
pump to be very low ( like the original input height of the original pump, to
receive fuel. </span>
</div>
<div dir="auto">
<span style="font-family: sans-serif;"><br></span>
</div>
<div dir="auto">
<span style="font-family: sans-serif;">So I am redetailing the frame
(cleaning & new paint) and securing the new fuel line, inline glass Filter
& elec pump right on the frame. This allows the steel feed line from
the tank ( after Dremel Tool cutting) to match the new location of the electric
pump.</span>
</div>
<div dir="auto">
<span style="font-family: sans-serif;"><br></span>
</div>
<div dir="auto">
<span style="font-family: sans-serif;">Next will be modifying a new
copper fuel line ( semblance of originality) to meet the elec pump feed right
behind & adjacent to the Water pump. The original copper pipe mated to the
back of the mechanical pump , ran up and forward along the engine at the
cylinder head level to the front of the engine & then across to the
carburetor feeds.</span>
</div>
<div dir="auto">
<span style="font-family: sans-serif;"><br></span>
</div>
<div dir="auto">
<span style="font-family: sans-serif;">Finally hope this resolves the
fuel delivery issue.</span>
</div>
<div dir="auto">
<span style="font-family: sans-serif;"><br></span>
</div>
<div dir="auto">
<span style="font-family: sans-serif;">I wanted to share a
warning about the TRF pump supplier manufacturing glitch. So others can not
waste years getting their TRs back to Roadworthy status.</span>
</div>
<div dir="auto">
<span style="font-family: sans-serif;"><br></span>
</div>
<div dir="auto">
<span style="font-family: sans-serif;">Obviously not going to drive a
car with weeping fuel near a hot engine. At least on the TR4 & 6s, ( unlike
Jaguar 6s ( have 2) or V12s ( have 3), Jensen GTs ( have 3) ; the exhaust
Manifolds are on the opposite side of the engine. </span>
</div>
<div dir="auto">
<span style="font-family: sans-serif;"><br></span>
</div>
<div dir="auto">
Sherman D Taffel
</div>
<div dir="auto">
Columbia MD and Goldvein VA
</div>
<div dir="auto">
65 TR4 CT 50054L
</div>
<div dir="auto">
( per VTR the last known TR4 produced & shipped to USA)
</div>
<div dir="auto">
<br>
</div>
<div dir="auto">
<br>
</div>
<div dir="auto" id="m_-6070975799002559859composer_signature">
<div dir="auto" style="font-size: 85%; color: #575757;">
Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S10, an AT&T 5G Evolution capable
smartphone
</div>
</div>
<div dir="auto">
<br>
</div>
</div>
<div dir="auto">
<br>
</div>
<div dir="auto">
<br>
</div>
<div dir="auto" id="m_-6070975799002559859composer_signature">
<div dir="auto" style="font-size: 85%; color: #575757;">
Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S10, an AT&T 5G Evolution capable
smartphone
</div>
</div>
<div dir="auto">
<br>
</div>
</div>**
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