--===============5501848865030913798==
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Adhesives can do a lot -- the TRIUMPH nameplate on the back of my TR3B is
held on with 3M body trim mounting adhesive as an alternative to spire nuts.
The problem probably isn't the weight of the head badge, but the lack of
any surface area for contact. The badge only touches the painted bodywork
around its narrow perimeter, I guess one could cobble some blocking system
on the backside, but that would be a far from ideal solution. The two that
would work are (1) modify the holes, or (2) modify or find a badge with
appropriate post spacing.
On Mon, Feb 17, 2020 at 12:24 PM Roger Elliott <elliottr@rmi.net> wrote:
> Is it possible to use some good heavy duty double sided tape? Or is the
> badge too heavy for that? i know I have heard of it being used in some
> places.
> Roger
> On 2/17/2020 11:30 AM, Don Hiscock wrote:
>
> The badge mounting holes on the apron currently on my TR3B (not the
> original, which was upgraded to this one thirty five years ago) are
> slightly out of round. The original style inserts would never have
> worked. For a few years I had the flat spring speed nuts on the mounting
> posts, and the badge was tight with no movement. But I hate those things.
>
> A few years ago I threaded (carefully) with a die the posts on my
> reproduction badge and it's now mounted with nyloc nuts and plastic
> washers. It accomodates the slightly out-of-round holes quite well. I'm
> very happy with this approach and would recommend it for anyone who thinks
> it might make sense for their car.
>
> Don
> Saint Louis
> 1962 TR3B
>
> On Mon, Feb 17, 2020 at 10:08 AM Jim Henningsen <trguy75@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Ordered a new enameled hood badge as the body shop had tried to bend it to
>> fit the holes and cracked the enamel. The holes on my 62 TR4 hood are not
>> quite matching up with the aftermarket hood badges. This one is from
>> England. Any thoughts on fixing this before I experiment. Badges ae too
>> expensive to try and bend the mounting tips. I am thinking I need to
>> shave
>> one of the holes on a top or bottom side to increase length between
>> holes. I
>> know this may allow badge to shift after install, but what options are
>> there?
>> Thanks
>> Jim Henningsen
>> Ocala FL
>> 61 TR3A
>> 62 TR4
>> 75 TR6
>> 81 TR8
>>
>>
>> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
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>>
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>>
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
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--0000000000009a0f31059ec9cc7f
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<div dir=3D"ltr">Adhesives can do a lot -- the TRIUMPH nameplate on the bac=
k of my TR3B is held on with 3M body trim mounting adhesive as an alternati=
ve to spire nuts.<div><br></div><div>The problem probably isn't the wei=
ght of the head badge, but the lack of any surface area for contact.=C2=A0 =
The badge only touches the painted bodywork around its narrow perimeter,=C2=
=A0 I guess one could cobble some blocking system on the backside, but that=
would be a far from ideal solution.=C2=A0 The two that would work are (1) =
modify the holes, or (2) modify or find a badge with appropriate post spaci=
ng.=C2=A0=C2=A0</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" =
class=3D"gmail_attr">On Mon, Feb 17, 2020 at 12:24 PM Roger Elliott <<a =
href=3D"mailto:elliottr@rmi.net";>elliottr@rmi.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><=
blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-l=
eft:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
=20
=20
=20
<div>
<p>Is it possible to use some good heavy duty double sided tape?=C2=A0 =
Or
is the badge too heavy for that?=C2=A0 i know I have heard of it bein=
g
used in some places.<br>
Roger <br>
</p>
<div>On 2/17/2020 11:30 AM, Don Hiscock
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
=20
<div dir=3D"ltr">The badge mounting holes on the apron currently on
my TR3B (not the original, which was upgraded to this one thirty
five years ago) are slightly=C2=A0out of round.=C2=A0 The original =
style
inserts would never have worked.=C2=A0 For a few years I had the fl=
at
spring speed nuts on the mounting posts, and the badge was tight
with no movement.=C2=A0 But I hate those things.
<div><br>
</div>
<div>A few years ago I threaded (carefully) with a die the posts
on my reproduction badge and it's now mounted with nyloc nuts
and plastic washers.=C2=A0 It accomodates the slightly out-of-rou=
nd
holes quite well.=C2=A0 I'm very happy with this approach and=
would
recommend it for anyone who thinks it might make sense for
their car.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Don</div>
<div>Saint Louis</div>
<div>1962 TR3B</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class=3D"gmail_quote">
<div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Mon, Feb 17, 2020 at 10:08
AM Jim Henningsen <<a href=3D"mailto:trguy75@gmail.com"; target=
=3D"_blank">trguy75@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex=
;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">Ordered
a new enameled hood badge as the body shop had tried to bend
it to<br>
fit the holes and cracked the enamel.=C2=A0 The holes on my 62 TR=
4
hood are not<br>
quite matching up with the aftermarket hood badges.=C2=A0 This on=
e
is from<br>
England.=C2=A0 Any thoughts on fixing this before I experiment.=
=C2=A0
Badges ae too<br>
expensive to try and bend the mounting tips.=C2=A0 I am thinking =
I
need to shave<br>
one of the holes on a top or bottom side to increase length
between holes. I<br>
know this may allow badge to shift after install, but what
options are<br>
there?=C2=A0 <br>
Thanks<br>
Jim Henningsen=C2=A0 <br>
Ocala FL<br>
61 TR3A<br>
62 TR4<br>
75 TR6<br>
81 TR8<br>
<br>
<br>
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</blockquote>
</div>
<br>
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