> With their poor ventilation, I don't see how they can manage
> their rated output on a continuous basis.The saving grace for
> this, is that these "35 amp" alternators are being used and
> systems that generally will have a peak demand of no more
> than 20-21 amps.
>
> I think a properly maintained stock generator is perfectly
> well suited to a stock set up in the TR 2-4A cars.
Been a few years back, but I actually measured continuous consumption with
"stock" sealed beam headlights, heater and wipers on a previous TR3A at
around 23 amps. That did not include brake lights nor turn signals, nor
recharging the battery. So "peak" is actually quite a bit higher.
Up to TS60,000, the stock generator was only rated at 19 amps, so the
battery would literally run down even while driving at speed, with only the
heater, wipers and headlights on.
Plus, it takes a fair amount of juice out of the battery to start. Even
without the heater, there is very little excess capacity to recharge the
battery, so it only takes a few short trips (like commuting 5 miles each way
to work) before the battery is too run down to start the engine.
> If you have additional power-hungry ancillaries, then a real
> alternator that LOOKS like a real alternator will probably
> function better and live longer than the stealth units.
That I agree with. This time around, I found a smallish Japanese alternator
that fits the space very well (thanks to Chris "Mad" Marx). Might look
better at home with a coat of black paint, but not too bad as-is. And
actually easier to change the belt than with the old generator! (I also
made no permanent mods to the car, beyond rewiring a defective control box
from the junk bin. I preserved the repairable original generator and
control box, just in case I ever get that crazy.)
https://i.imgur.com/X4GAP8v.jpg
None of which has anything to do with the OP's question :)
Ed, you might want to check the ground strap between the engine and battery;
but it sure sounds like a dead alternator to me.
-- Randall
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