No relay originally (although I've added one to my TR3).
There are detailed troubleshooting instructions (including "tuning" the
adjustment inside the horns) in the workshop manual. You can download a PDF
from
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B2H2NJt34OffYWZiN2VlZGMtNTkxMi00NGUzLWE4Nz
MtMGRkODRkYzU3MDU1
For perusal indoors. (A larger screen certainly helps, but I find it to be
at least marginally useful on my android phone.) Don't neglect the
paragraph on "steel push rod stiff or jammed", it's a common problem in my
experience.
I also fought with weak horns for a long time, sometimes they wouldn't work
at all and other times just a weak mooing noise. Adding the relay helped a
bit (the contacts inside the control head get dirty and eroded over time and
don't conduct so good); but the main problem I had (after going through
everything else) was a broken contact inside a 4-way bullet sleeve. In
retrospect, I should have just changed the sleeve right off the bat.
In case it's not obvious, the horns draw current on a very intermittant
basis. So the average current reading (what your ammeter shows) is no more
than half the actual peak current. The circuit needs to be in condition to
handle 26 amps rather than the 13 amps mentioned in the book.
-- Randall
56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver
71 Stag LE1473 - awaiting engine rebuild
71-2-3 Stag - awaiting gearbox rebuild
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