If the red light is on, you are not charging the system. If you have a modern
alternator, I agree no need for the control box, but you still need to connect
wires. I can send a pic when I get home at the end of the week. I don't think
you can conclude anything from the ammeter until the system is charging. It is
probably correcto, a small draw and the battery not charging. So wait until
you fix the red light problem.
Do you have the gearbox cover on? If not, does the cross-shaft move when you
put you foot on the clutch? If the cover is on, have someone look underneath.
There is a difference between crunching going into gear, but you still have a
clutch, and being unable to find a gear with the engine running. If you start
the car in gear and your foot is on the clutch, does it lurch?
60 psi at warm idle is great, maybe even a little high. Watch you don't go too
high when driving.
--------- Original Message --------- Subject: RE: [EXTERNAL] - RE: [TR] red
light, huh?
From: "David Templeton" <davidt at opentext.com>
Date: 8/21/18 1:32 pm
To: "auprichard at uprichard.net" <auprichard at uprichard.net>, "'Triumphs
List'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
From: auprichard at uprichard.net <auprichard at uprichard.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2018 2:14 PM
To: David Templeton <davidt at opentext.com>; 'Triumphs List' <triumphs at
autox.team.net>
Subject: [EXTERNAL] - RE: [TR] red light, huh?
1. Red light on - common problem with a rebuild. It is probably your voltage
regulator, but could be the generator.
[DT] ok, I have an alternator with a dummy control box…
https://scontent.fyto1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/22289710_10154791827276960_7862641928967427382_o.jpg?_nc_fx=fyto1-1&_nc_cat=0&oh=037cf08c7b1bd39368e193977202444f&oe=5C00F9F4
But with the ignition switch set to off???? I would expect no power to be
flowing in the system?!?!?!?
2. Your amp gauge should be +ve when running, but then your charging function
isn't set up (red light on). Fix the charging system, then address the
ammeter. If it is still -ve, the wires are probably reversed.
[DT] yeap reversed, I do need to do that, looks like tonight's job. The
question was more about the scale of the needle deviation, it was only slight,
not a large value
3. Best case scenario for the grinding clutch is adjustment at the pedal and
the slave: worse case - you don't have a clutch and need to pull the gearbox
[DT] hmmm, ok, going to assume adjustment and maybe master/slave
rebuild….
4. My rule of thumb is 60psi at 3000 rpm when warm, so higher with a cold
engine.
[DT] ok she is idling and was almost 180deg. Sooo good??? ?
Andrew Uprichard
Jackson, Michigan
--------- Original Message ---------
Subject: [TR] red light, huh?
From: "David Templeton" <davidt at opentext.com>
Date: 8/20/18 8:59 pm
To: "'Triumphs List'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Ok now the euphoria of the engine starting has passed ( well not really, this
is going to last a while ). Need to tackle a few more things:
Hook up the battery and while the ignition is off the red dash light is on
all the time???? I do need to switch over the amp gauge. While running, it is
slightly -ve ( which means slightly +ve ). This a good sign? Or should there
be more charging? While the engine was running, push in the clutch, the
pedal moves, but gears grinds touching to go into gear. I am assuming the
slave is not responding? There is fluif in the can ? ( still love that word )
The oil pressure running on this 'break-in' oil is a solid 60psi. Does this
collective like that?
David
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